🇵🇰 From Ratigali to Ghamot : 11 lakes in three days

[Ghazi52]

From Ratigali to Ghamot : 11 lakes in three days​

Our trekking team descended from Ratigali lake to Saral lake and then via Ghumot village to Sharda during which we visited 11 lakes.

Nasr Ahmad Bhatti
October 8, 2024


Over the last decade or so, I have had the occasional opportunity to trek to many beautiful places in the Neelum Valley.

Generally, it has been daring to divide Neelam Valley into two parts, one part up to Kiel (town) and the other part coming from Kiel to Taubat for its humble beauty. Before Kiel, the most part across the border is Kupwara and after Kiel, the Bandipora area of the district lies along the Indian side of the Neelum valley, while between Kiel and Taubat is known as Wadi Griz.

The Ratigali (Dewariyan/Barkatiya) lake has a special place in the valley. For a long time, this lake is known as Rati Gali, but the whites named this lake Dharian Sar. It is the largest lake in Neelam valley. This year, there was a plan to descend from Ratigali Lake to Saral Lake and then to Sharda village via Ghamot village along with Brother Raees Iqalani.

Ratigali Lake seen from Gitian Pass—Photo: Lakhari

The discovery of Saral and its surrounding lakes is credited to Rais Ilabani—Photo: Lakhari

At the appointed time we reached our host Rais Bhai. Reminisced at Ratigali Lake and started the climb towards Gitian Pass to acclimatise the body to the regular weather before starting trekking the next morning. It is considered a tough climb from Ratigali lake, however the climb was quite tiring and according to some friends it was an over activity when camping at night.

Rati Gali Lake—Photo: Lakhari

 

[Ghazi52]

 

[Ghazi52]

Next morning after breakfast the team left and after an hour and 40 minutes we reached Hansraj lake. After relaxing for a while, we decided to go to the two twin lakes behind the Hans Raj Lake. These two lakes are known as Kala Sir One and Kala Sir Two. One lake is slightly bigger and the other lake is smaller in thickness.

A fair amount of climbing is required before reaching these two lakes and it is a test of patience to cross the huge boulders before reaching the lake. The view of both the lakes is spectacular and is a masterpiece of nature's creation.

After slowing down for a while, our next destination was the Kala Sar Pass (Rati Gili Pass). At over 14,000 feet, the ascent to this pass is a bit tough. After a 30 to 40 minute climb, the view of the entire valley from this pass was spectacular. Due to the clear weather, the distant peaks are clearly visible and this is the reason why Nanga Parbat can also be seen from here.

Our trekking team at Kala Sarpas (Nuri Nar Gully)—Photo: Lakhari

After spending some time at the top, our destination was to descend from the slightly higher side of Noori Nar Gali towards Noori Lake. The road was very bad and the body was constantly dehydrating due to the sun. Soon the light started to appear from the lake top and we slowly started descending to the lake. The Nilgoon Lake was very pleasing to the eyes. The blooming flowers around the lake made the scenery around the lake even more beautiful. These views of nature act as a booster dose for the trekkers and the feeling of fatigue is instantly removed.

Noori Lake is a beautiful and large lake near the top—Photo: Lakhari

A picturesque view of Noori Lake—Photo: Lakhari

 

[Ghazi52]

As the sun was going to set between the mountains, after relaxing for a while at the lake, we headed towards our next destination, Noori Falls. In fact, the water of the lake descends into the valley through a natural and large waterfall. After trekking for a little over an hour, our team reached the side of Noori Falls. They camped in front of the Noori waterfall for the night. Few trekkers get to cook pulao at such a beautiful location and then chat all night long.

Noori Falls—Photo: Lakhari

 

[Ghazi52]

Tented trekkers near Noori Falls—Photo: Lakhari

The large grassy pastures in front of the falls offer a very attractive sight—Photo: Lakhari

Next morning the weather was clear and our destination was Saral lake. As soon as we started trekking, we reached the road connecting Sharda to Besar and after a kilometer called the road as Khairabad, we again followed the trails towards Saral Pass (Jamaa Pass). One of Rais Bhai's Bakrwal friends freshened up by drinking native lassi and believe that drinking lassi with Bakrwal friends in the middle of these valleys is also lucky.

An anonymous lake seen near Juma Pass—Photo: Lakhari

After trekking for a little over two hours, we reached the top of Saral Pass and after slowing down for some time, we crossed a very dangerous descent. Much of this descent consists of glaciers and boulders.

Ghumot leads to numerous glaciers in the middle of Sharda—Photo: Lakhari

 

[Ghazi52]

As soon as the fatigue of the descent begins to set in, the first sight of the Saral Lake begins to appear in the distance. After more than an hour of trekking, our team had reached our designated base camp walking along the lake.

First view of Saral Lake—Photo: Lakhari

Breathtaking view of Saral Lake—Photo: Lakhari

Saral is a unique lake and very beautiful and large lake. It is one of the major lakes of the Neelum Valley, while Dudhipat Sar Lake, located near the Naran Valley, is also just a half-day trek away. After enjoying the lake a campfire was made at night. Local friends warmed the atmosphere of a cold night with their melodious sounds. In this way, the view of hundreds of stars in the sky and the Milky Way galaxy was also visible.

Saral Behimal—Photo: Lakhari

 

[Ghazi52]

.

Making a campfire at Saral Lake—Photo: Lakhari


The third day started with light rain. Our team members got busy preparing breakfast. Soon the rain stopped and the sun came out again with the weather.

Usually trekkers from Saral Lake end their trekking by crossing the Naran Valley after overnight stay at Dudipat Sar. However, Azam planned to cross the Ghumot Pass with the team, as Ghumot pass is not even done by local Bakarwals or there was hardly any Bakarwal at Saral Lake who had reached Sharda by trekking Ghamot, so it was a challenge for us.

Ascending from Saral to New Lakes—Photo: Lakhari


Let us also mention here that Ghamot has the status of a National Park and it is full of numerous animals. Raees Revolution and his team proceeded to the eastern side of Saral Lake to photograph some new lakes while our team proceeded to Ghumot and it was decided that the two teams would meet again at Ghumot.

 

[Ghazi52]

Photo: Lakhari

After Saral, we reached Moon Lake, the view from the top is mesmerizing—Photo: Lakhari

Moon Lake—Photo: Writer

The path to the beginning was a little easier. After three hours of trekking we reached a point where the Nala flowing from Babusar Pass and the Nala flowing from Saral merge and flow towards each other at the same point where the route ends and becomes very technical. . Even ropes are required at some places while we have many difficulties due to lack of rope facilities.

To the east of Saral Lake is Ram Chakor Lake, which is a large lake

 

[Ghazi52]

Photo: Lakhari

A view of a small lake before the Mon and Ram Chakor lakes, called by the locals the Malaon Walli Lake—Photo: Author


At some places one had to climb down into the canal with the help of tree roots and on some occasions one had to cross the dangerous descent by tying sweaters or wristbands together due to lack of access.

The perilous descent of Ghamot Pass—Photo: Lakhari

Rais and our teams met shortly before Ghamot village and thus three days of hard and tiring trekking came to an end. Reached the jeep at a village at 12 pm and after another two hours of travel we reached Sharda city late at night.

Nasr Ahmad Bhatti
The writer is a student of theology and has been a student of Arabic literature. They are
very keen to observe nature through hiking and trekking.