[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh

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[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh
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Declining apparel exports - any way out?
WASI AHMED
Published :
Jul 02, 2024 22:05
Updated :
Jul 02, 2024 22:05
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The decline in garment export to the largest markets USA and the EU is persisting since the second half of the current fiscal. Reasons broadly attributed to the situation include inflationary pressure, increased production costs, lead time, and energy crisis. Lead time has always been a factor to cause delay in shipments-an inherent drawback that places competitors like Vietnam and Cambodia in an advantageous position over Bangladesh. However, in the past this inadequacy was partly made up by cheap labour and large-scale production of low-end apparel products. The situation now seems to be increasingly difficult as inflationary pressure coupled with energy crisis has made garment export more challenging than in the past.

According to the US Department of Commerce's Office of Textiles and Apparel data released last week, Bangladesh's apparel export to the USA in the first four months of 2024 declined by 14.44 per cent to $2.31 billion compared with that of $2.70 billion in the same period of 2023. During the same period, exports from Vietnam grew by 0.31 per cent, while those from China declined by 4.42 per cent. The data showed that Vietnam overtook China to become the largest RMG exporter to the US in the January-April period of 2024. The US apparel imports from Cambodia in January-April of 2024 also increased by 7.92 per cent to $1.03 billion compared with those of $951.93 million in the same period of 2023. In the same period, the combined export of textile and garment from Bangladesh to the USA declined by 14.15 per cent year-on-year to $2.38 billion, according to data from the Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA), a body under the US Department of Commerce.

The situation in respect of the EU is no better, if not worse. Bangladesh's RMG exports to the European Union in January-April, 2024 fell by 9.85 per cent to 6.01 billion euros compared with those of 6.67 billion euros in the same period of 2023, according to data released by Eurostat. Bangladesh managed to reduce its negative apparel export growth in the EU slightly but still performed worse compared with competitor countries in the reporting period. Exporters say, like the United States, Bangladesh lagged behind its competitors in the EU market due to severe energy crisis, high cost of utilities, increased cost of production, long lead times and cumbersome customs procedures. The EU data showed that Bangladesh's knitwear exports to the EU in January-April of 2024 dropped to 3.38 billion euros from 3.88 billion euros in the same period of 2023. Similarly, the country's woven garment exports to the EU during the period declined to 2.64 billion euros from 2.79 billion euros in the same period of 2023.

Exporters observe that despite a recent growth in US demand for apparel, and the EU too increasing its imports, Bangladesh failed to capture a larger market share due to factors such as longer shipment times and higher production costs. They say buyers are placing more orders with Vietnam and China recently, due primarily to shorter delivery times. According to the exporters, lead time for importing and processing for export has become longer-to 70-80 days from 50-55 days in the recent past.

It is pretty well known that China in the past years has been gradually moving away from exporting low-end apparel products in preference for up-end, value added varieties. This shift did offer a prospect for countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam and Cambodia to compete for a fair share of those products in global market. There was also a prediction that many Chinese apparel exporting firms would opt for relocation of their production units to these countries because of the escalating cost of labour and other vital inputs in China. There were speculations among the business community and trade experts that relocation of Chinese factories and shifting of a sizable share of Chinese apparel exports would benefit Bangladesh. It is now clear that Bangladesh could not benefit from either of the two opportunities. The opposite, however, has happened in case of Vietnam-in grabbing shifting export orders and relocation of production units.

Lead time is indeed one factor to dissuade importers to place work orders, but equally important issues that according to exporters are responsible to deter importers, especially US importers, are logistics and infrastructure-related limitations, and instable energy supply.

One sure way to cut lead time is raising local supply of raw materials and accessories. During the past two decades, substantial investment took place in the country's textile sector for meeting demands of woven and knit fabrics for export manufacturing. It is claimed that currently local textile and spinning mills have a capacity of meeting around 75-80 per cent of export requirements. But the instable energy security has led most mills to operate far below capacity.

Gas and power scarcity that seemed to take its toll on industrial production since a year ago has by now become potentially threatening to almost the entire range of industrial productivity. Notable among the sectors badly hurt include textiles, RMG, light engineering, fertiliser, cement etc. As reports have it, country's textile mills are the worst victims of gas and power shortage for several months. Production in the export-oriented textile mills has drastically fallen due to the ongoing gas supply shortage. A representative of the textile mills association has reported that local factories are operating at 60-70 per cent capacity due to energy shortages, prompting buyers to redirect orders to China and Vietnam for quicker deliveries. Some 300 textile mills located at Gazipur, Savar, Ashulia, Shreepur, Dhaka, Narayanganj, Narsingdi and Bhaluka are finding it extremely difficult to remain operational in this situation.

In order for things to improve, the most crucial requirement is ensuring adequate gas and power supply. While other areas affecting exports cannot be expected to be healed quickly, energy should be the key focus of the government.​
 

Cut in export incentives to weigh on textile sector
BTMA says

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The government's decision to further cut incentives on export receipts will badly hurt the domestic textile sector which bears an investment of $22 billion, a top leader of Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA) said yesterday.

Moreover, the primary textile sector, which has been working as the garment industry's main backward linkage, will lose its competitiveness in international markets, said BTMA President Mohammad Ali Khokon.

The government needs to formulate a long-term roadmap for the textile and garment sector to survive and grow well into the country's graduation into a developing nation, he said.

Other comparator countries have already devised such plans and those are working well, he told a press conference at the BTMA office in Dhaka.

For instance, India graduated from least developed country (LDC) status in 2004 and still provides a lot of incentives as alternatives to direct cash subsidies for the growth of the textile and garment sectors, said Khokon.

As a result, the difference in the cost of production of a kilogramme of 30 count yarn in Bangladesh and India is currently 22 cents, he said.

Unfortunately, this advantage is leading to 13 percent of Bangladesh's annual demand for yarn being met with imports from India, causing the local primary textile sector to suffer, he added.

Indian yarn sellers are flooding the Bangladesh market with their cheap products and dominating local yarn manufacturers, he said.

Asked whether the BTMA would ask the government to enforce anti-dumping initiatives, Khokon said lodging complaints is not something that the BTMA should take up.

The government will deal with state level issues and in this case, it can be assisted by the apex trade body, the Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry, he said.

The BTMA chief also demanded the withdrawal of a Bangladesh Bank circular of June 30 this year.

The circular announced that cash subsidy on use of local yarn had been reduced to 1.5 percent from 4 percent as a part of preparations for the LDC graduation in 2026.

In January, the government had also reduced the cash subsidy on export receipts to some extent.

However, Bangladesh will enjoy trade benefits of the European Union (EU) as an LDC up to 2029 as the EU always offers graduating LDCs a grace period of three years, said Khokon.

Moreover, the 13th ministerial conference of the World Trade Organization (WTO) held in Abu Dhabi in February this year decided to extend the LDC trade benefits to graduating LDCs for three more years, he said.

So, still there is a long time to go until final LDC graduation. The government should continue the trade facilities up to that time for the growth of the economy, the BTMA chief also said.

The government should also formulate a long-term policy support to address challenges in the post LDC graduation period, he added.

Of the major costs behind the production of every kg of yarn in Bangladesh, gas accounts for 27 cents whereas it was 11 cents prior to a price hike, he said.

Similarly bank loan interest accounts for 11 cents whereas it was 8 cents around a year ago, he said.

The mills have been running at 50 percent capacity because of low gas pressure, he added.

The government also increased the price of gas to Tk 31 per unit for the textile sector but kept it at Tk 15 per unit for power plants, which is discriminatory, he added.

Currently, the textile sector needs 3,800 million metre cubic feet of gas per day (MMCFD) but the government can supply 2,631 MMCFD.

Damage inflicted during the recent Cyclone Remal has reduced the gas supply to 2,350 MMCFD, for which the local millers are facing a severe gas crisis.

Regarding cotton imports, the BTMA chief said since Bangladesh does not produce any cotton, the local millers import nearly $4 billion worth of the fibre, helping to turn the country into the second-largest garment exporter after China.

Along with the continuation of cotton imports, the government should also facilitate imports of man-made fibres as the demand for garment items made from artificial fibres has been rising worldwide and an opportunity has been created for the country, he said.​
 

Hazards of textiles' 'forever chemicals'
ATIQUL KABIR TUHIN
Published :
Jul 06, 2024 21:36
Updated :
Jul 06, 2024 21:36
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A recent study by the Environment and Social Development Organization (ESDO) and International Pollutants Elimination Network (IPEN) titled 'Persistent Threat: PFAS in textiles and water in Bangladesh' sheds light on a critical issue that demands immediate attention from policymakers and garment and textile industry leaders. The report reveals alarming levels of toxic PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) in surface and tap water samples collected near industrial areas, particularly those associated with the textile industry in and around Dhaka.

PFAS are a large, complex group of synthetic chemicals that have been used in consumer products around the world since aroind the 1950s. PFAS are widely used for their water and stain-resistant properties in various consumer products, including textiles. These chemicals, however, earned the nickname of 'forever chemicals' because scientists say they could take hundreds or even thousands of years to degrade long after their initial use. If PFAS leak into water, they could remain there for centuries. As the textile industry accounts for about 50 per cent of global PFAS use, Bangladesh stands at the epicentre of this environmental crisis as the world's second largest apparel manufacturer.

To address the issue, Dr. Shahriar Hossain, senior policy and technical advisor for ESDO and lead author of the study, said "Regulating thousands of PFAS chemicals one-by-one would take decades and leave our children at risk. We urgently need global controls on all PFAS chemicals as a class." His call for a class-based approach to banning PFAS chemicals is both practical and necessary. Given the complexity and sheer number of PFAS compounds, a piecemeal regulatory approach would be insufficient and dangerously slow.

The long-time health implications of exposure to PFAS so far known are well documented. These chemicals have been linked to fertility problems, developmental issues, thyroid disruption, weakened immunity, liver damage, and cancer. Despite these serious risks, the textile industry and policymakers have been slow to respond. The study detected PFAS in 87 per cent of the surface water samples collected, with many samples exceeding proposed regulatory limits by alarming margins. One sample from the Karnatali River in Savar contained PFAS levels more than 300 times above the proposed EU limit, with PFOA and PFOS levels thousands of times higher than Dutch advisory limits.

The study also highlights the significant influence of major international fashion brands sourcing products from Bangladesh. These brands have the power to drive change by demanding PFAS-free products and being transparent about the presence of these chemicals in their products. Some brands have already committed to eliminating PFAS, demonstrating that safer alternatives are available and viable. The textile industry must follow suit and prioritise public health and environmental sustainability over short-term economic gains. If necessary the government must force them to follow suit.

Siddika Sultana, executive director of ESDO in Bangladesh, rightly points out that "the fashion export industry should not get a free pass to contaminate our rivers, lakes, and taps with PFAS." The industry must be held accountable and stricter regulations are essential. Bangladesh currently lacks specific regulations on PFAS, a gap that policymakers must urgently address. Implementing a class-based ban on PFAS chemicals and setting stringent contamination limits are critical steps toward mitigating this pervasive threat.

Clean water is the essence of all life. Not just for humans, but also for animals and plants. It is the very foundation of a healthy ecosystem. Yet, Dhaka's rivers, once teeming with life, are now being polluted, strangled, and choked by industrial and human waste. This is not just a major concern for now, but also for our very survival and collective future. We need to stop the rot and veer away from our suicidal ways immediately. Industry, policymakers, and the public alike must work together to clean up Dhaka's water and ensure a healthy future for all.​
 

Bangladesh is a promising destination for business, BGMEA president tells Chinese delegation
Published :
Jul 07, 2024 20:21
Updated :
Jul 07, 2024 20:21

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BGMEA president SM Mannan (Kochi) has said with strategic location, political stability, growing infrastructure and logistics, Bangladesh is a promising destination for business and investment.

He provided an insightful overview of Bangladesh's vibrant apparel industry, highlighting its strategic shift towards manufacturing high-value woven and man-made fibre (MMF)-based garments.

A delegation representing leading Chinese textile and apparel enterprises visited the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) on Sunday to explore collaboration opportunities in the textile and apparel sector, UNB reports.

Led by Huang Liansheng, Managing Director of the China Textile Industrial Corporation for Foreign Economic and Technical Cooperation (CTEXIC), the 15-member delegation engaged in fruitful discussions with the leaders of BGMEA including President SM Mannan (Kochi), Senior Vice President Khandoker Rafiqul Islam, Vice President Abdullah Hil Rakib and Vice President Rakibul Alam Chowdhury.

The meeting focused on exploring investment opportunities, and expanding business horizons between Bangladesh and China in the textile and apparel industry.

Mannan (Kochi) highlighted the increasing investment by Bangladeshi manufacturers in technology upgradation to enhance production capabilities and efficiency in manufacturing high-end complex garment items.

The BGMEA leaders underscored the potential for Chinese investment in high-end textiles and backward linkage industries in Bangladesh, which promise mutual benefits for both nations.

They also emphasised China's support in enhancing capabilities through the exchange of knowledge and technical expertise.

Huang Liansheng, Managing Director of CTEXIC, expressed the delegation's purpose during their visit to Bangladesh, emphasizing their interest in assessing the business and investment environment and policies of the country.

"During our visit to various factories, we are pleased to witness significant improvements in the working environment in Bangladesh. The workers here exhibit a positive and energetic attitude," he remarked. "Many Chinese companies are eager to explore business and investment opportunities in Bangladesh."

Huang Liansheng further said, "We intend to share our positive experiences with other Chinese companies that have not yet ventured into Bangladesh, encouraging them to explore the business potential this country offers."

BGMEA Directors Md Ashikur Rahman (Tuhin), Shams Mahmud, Rajiv Chowdhury, Abrar Hossain Sayem, Md Jakir Hossain, Md Nurul Islam, Md Rezaul Alam (Miru), M Ahsanul Hoq, Mohammed Rakib AL Naser, and Md Absar Hossain were present at the meeting.​
 

Knitting industries call indefinite strike for price hike
Production shutdown begins today

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The knitting industries across the country have called for an indefinite strike demanding a price hike of the raw materials they produce for the knitwear sector.

Production will remain shut in the factories from July 15 and it will continue until further notice, Md Selim Sarwar, president of Bangladesh Knitting Owners Association (BKOA), said in a statement.

Over 700 knitting industries, which supply knit fabrics, collar, needles, button and needle oil, demanded the raise because of increasing US dollar rates and gas and power prices.

These industries supply nearly 70 percent of the fabrics that are used in export-oriented knitwear garment factories, said Mohammad Hatem, executive president of Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA).

"Their demand for a price hike of their goods is logical, but they have not discussed the issue before going for the production shutdown in their factories."

Instead of calling a strike, these industries should sit with the knitwear manufacturers as the prices of those goods need to be increased, he said.​
 

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