South Asian Affairs
- Mar 21, 2024
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- 214
- Origin
- Residence
- Axis Group
Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka – The sun hung low over the Indian Ocean, casting an amber glow on the waves as a heated argument erupted in Arugam Bay, a popular beach in eastern Sri Lanka.
In the water, a group of local surfers were engaged in a dispute with Israeli tourists that kicked off over surf etiquette – or rather, from the perspective of the Sri Lankans, a lack of it.
Jeevan Hall, an internationally acclaimed Sri Lankan surfer, was in the lineup of the surf when he encountered an Israeli tourist repeatedly taking waves without leaving any for others. Frustrated, Hall approached the tourist – an off-duty soldier of the Israeli army – and asked him to respect the surfing code of conduct and share the waves.
What started as an innocuous request quickly escalated into a tiff. Two of the soldier’s friends, also Israeli soldiers on a break, joined in. The three started paddling around him in the water, hurling insults in Hebrew.
Other surfers rushed to support Hall, only to be met with accusations from the Israelis: “You only have issues with us because of the war.”
Hall knew the soldiers were referring to Israel’s war on Gaza. He quickly clarified that his frustration had nothing to do with politics but with the soldier’s blatant disregard for surf manners.
“This is a very common thing that happens in Arugam Bay,” Hall later told Al Jazeera.
But there is a reason why the Israeli soldiers referred to the war that is on a tenuous pause for the moment because of a ceasefire. In Sri Lanka, as in many other parts of the world, they are no longer as welcome as before.
Among the visitors, young Israeli tourists have carved out a notable presence, particularly the reservists – Israelis who have come out of the country’s compulsory military service.
In 2022, 9,000 Israeli nationals entered Sri Lanka, with the figure increasing by 1,000 the next year, according to local authorities.
In 2024, however, as Israel’s military campaign in Gaza turned into a genocide, the number of Israeli visitors to Sri Lanka doubled with an estimated 20,000 entering the South Asian island.
Shiro Jeyawadne, a Sri Lankan who moves between the east and south surf season each year, working in restaurants and bars along the coast, said she believes Israelis are vacationing in greater numbers in Sri Lanka as a way to “get over” the war they participated in.
@Krishna with Flute @Sharma Ji @Lulldapull
“They don’t seem to care that there is tension between the wider community with them being here, their minds are elsewhere,” she told Al Jazeera.
In the island’s tourist towns such as Arugam Bay, the sight of business signs in Hebrew is normal, highlighting the enclaves of Israeli reservists who often stay for months on end. At least 100 Israelis have settled in the town, which has a total population of fewer than 4,000.
“I never need to know if my friends will be there. When I come to Sri Lanka, I know there will be other Israelis I can spend my trip with,” Tel Aviv-based T Oko told Al Jazeera.
For years, the relations between the local residents and Israeli visitors had been cordial as the influx contributed to a tourism-dependent Sri Lankan economy.
But cracks in this dynamic are now visible.
Several coastal tourist destinations – including Indonesia in 2018 and the Maldives in 2024 – banned Israeli passport holders from entering their countries. In December, Australia denied the entry of two Israeli soldiers who had served in Gaza.
In Sri Lanka, some believe that following suit would lead to an influx of “more ethically-minded” tourists who are otherwise hesitant to visit due to the dominance of Israeli reservists on the island’s beaches.
“The vibe would be different, the coastline culture would be more connected,” Jack Campbell, a long-term resident originally from Australia, told Al Jazeera.
“It’s a snowball effect because they exist with a group mentality. I don’t feel safe for my family here,” he said, referring specifically to Israeli soldiers who have been flagged as suspected war criminals.
In the water, a group of local surfers were engaged in a dispute with Israeli tourists that kicked off over surf etiquette – or rather, from the perspective of the Sri Lankans, a lack of it.
Jeevan Hall, an internationally acclaimed Sri Lankan surfer, was in the lineup of the surf when he encountered an Israeli tourist repeatedly taking waves without leaving any for others. Frustrated, Hall approached the tourist – an off-duty soldier of the Israeli army – and asked him to respect the surfing code of conduct and share the waves.
What started as an innocuous request quickly escalated into a tiff. Two of the soldier’s friends, also Israeli soldiers on a break, joined in. The three started paddling around him in the water, hurling insults in Hebrew.
Other surfers rushed to support Hall, only to be met with accusations from the Israelis: “You only have issues with us because of the war.”
Hall knew the soldiers were referring to Israel’s war on Gaza. He quickly clarified that his frustration had nothing to do with politics but with the soldier’s blatant disregard for surf manners.
“This is a very common thing that happens in Arugam Bay,” Hall later told Al Jazeera.
But there is a reason why the Israeli soldiers referred to the war that is on a tenuous pause for the moment because of a ceasefire. In Sri Lanka, as in many other parts of the world, they are no longer as welcome as before.
Trouble in paradise
For decades, Sri Lanka has been a haven for international tourists seeking its pristine beaches, world-class surf, and a slice of tropical paradise – all at a relatively lesser cost than similar sites in other parts of the world.Among the visitors, young Israeli tourists have carved out a notable presence, particularly the reservists – Israelis who have come out of the country’s compulsory military service.
In 2022, 9,000 Israeli nationals entered Sri Lanka, with the figure increasing by 1,000 the next year, according to local authorities.
In 2024, however, as Israel’s military campaign in Gaza turned into a genocide, the number of Israeli visitors to Sri Lanka doubled with an estimated 20,000 entering the South Asian island.
Shiro Jeyawadne, a Sri Lankan who moves between the east and south surf season each year, working in restaurants and bars along the coast, said she believes Israelis are vacationing in greater numbers in Sri Lanka as a way to “get over” the war they participated in.
@Krishna with Flute @Sharma Ji @Lulldapull
“They don’t seem to care that there is tension between the wider community with them being here, their minds are elsewhere,” she told Al Jazeera.
In the island’s tourist towns such as Arugam Bay, the sight of business signs in Hebrew is normal, highlighting the enclaves of Israeli reservists who often stay for months on end. At least 100 Israelis have settled in the town, which has a total population of fewer than 4,000.
“I never need to know if my friends will be there. When I come to Sri Lanka, I know there will be other Israelis I can spend my trip with,” Tel Aviv-based T Oko told Al Jazeera.
For years, the relations between the local residents and Israeli visitors had been cordial as the influx contributed to a tourism-dependent Sri Lankan economy.
But cracks in this dynamic are now visible.
Several coastal tourist destinations – including Indonesia in 2018 and the Maldives in 2024 – banned Israeli passport holders from entering their countries. In December, Australia denied the entry of two Israeli soldiers who had served in Gaza.
In Sri Lanka, some believe that following suit would lead to an influx of “more ethically-minded” tourists who are otherwise hesitant to visit due to the dominance of Israeli reservists on the island’s beaches.
“The vibe would be different, the coastline culture would be more connected,” Jack Campbell, a long-term resident originally from Australia, told Al Jazeera.
“It’s a snowball effect because they exist with a group mentality. I don’t feel safe for my family here,” he said, referring specifically to Israeli soldiers who have been flagged as suspected war criminals.
