[🇵🇰] Pakistan Fashion

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Nailing The Fashion Game: 11 Times Sajal Aly Gave Us Major Style Goals

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Nailing the fashion game: 11 times Sajal Aly gave us major style goals​

Star has some absolute A-game gems on her Instagram profile

Sajeer Shaikh
February 01, 2024

KARACHI: Sajal Aly, with her extraordinary acting prowess, has established herself as a powerhouse performer in the world of Pakistani entertainment. Her ability to breathe life into diverse characters with depth and authenticity is truly commendable. Whether portraying emotionally charged roles or bringing nuance to complex characters, Sajal consistently delivers performances that resonate with audiences.

While her range and versatility as an actor have garnered widespread acclaim, making her a celebrated figure in the industry, Sajal is also quite the fashion-forward star. While her Instagram game is fairly divisive, with fans demanding more from the actor, Sajal has some absolute A-game gems on her Instagram profile which prove that the star knows how to kill the style game.


And here she is, proving that she's God's favourite, because not everyone can pull off bangs

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Imagine standing in front of the sea and still being the main attraction. That's Sajal for you, folks

The fact that Sajal is a holistic star, who possesses incredible acting chops, nails the style game, speaks well, and holds immense power in her eyes, is beyond belief. Kudos to the actor, and may she continue to rule our hearts for years to come.

 

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Sajal is beautiful but I have to make a confession for Ayeza Khan.

 

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Pakistani fashion to decamp in Dubai ahead of festive season​

BR Life & Style
February 2, 2024

It’s that time of the year when Pakistani fashion, in anticipation of the upcoming festivities of Ramazan and Eid, begin to set up shop in Dubai.

Collectives and solo exhibits featuring Pakistani fashion have become a regular occurrence across the Gulf as the region looks to provide brands with a wider platform and access to a diverse diaspora of customers.

Dubai also provides the platform for Indian customers to shop for Pakistani fashion, where travel may be restrictive, and vice versa.

Among the many exhibits that will be taking place over the course of the next few weeks, here are a few that caught attention.

Sania Maskatiya: February 3

This popular brand will be unveiling its latest ‘Ramadan Festive’ collection over the weekend. It will also be taking orders on its couture pieces.

For those not able to cross the Arabian Sea, it will also be unveiling the collection simultaneously online and at the flagship in Karachi.

The brand will be setting up an exhibit in collaboration with a jewelry brand, Diamantina.

Location: Vida, Emirates Hills, 11am - 7 pm (Dubai time)

Misha Lakhani: February 25

Photo: Instagram @mishalakhani

Misha Lakhani will be exhibiting her festive ready-to-wear collection as well as Haute Couture.

Location: Four Seasons Jumeirah, 10am - 7pm (Dubai time)

 

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[H2]As the Pakistani woman evolves, so do her jhumkay[/H2]
A piece of jewellery had to transform because of us, indicating that womanhood is a gradual process, taking all of us where we're exactly meant to be.

Aleezeh Fatima
16 Apr, 2024

As a Pakistani woman, when I walk through the tiny alleys of a public bazaar, or through air-conditioned malls, my attention is always focused on shiny jewellery.

I stop at the sounds of colourful bangles, even if I do not need them. The delicate hues remind me of my childhood and my excitement to purchase them on Eid. It also takes me back to when the world convinced me that it was 'cool' to be a tomboy, and my lack of femininity made me resilient and strong. However, as I grew up, I unlearned many concepts, which returned to me my love for jewellery, especially jhumkay.

The small mirrors placed at shops of beautiful, traditional jhumkay make me stop and place them in my ear, often only for me to turn and look at a woman standing next to me, who will definitely smile because she understands the feminine urge. Our womanhood lies in bangles, gajray, chikankari kurtas and of course, jhumkay — all of which remind us how beautiful the concept of femininity is.

Women have been told for years that their femininity is the reason why they are not taken seriously, that if, as a woman, you wear a lot of makeup and jewellery, you're not smart. However, as we age, we realise that our strength comes from within, and we must embrace the joys of our womanhood, especially in ornaments such as jhumkay which are the best of both worlds — Western and Eastern.

[H2]The royal jewels[/H2]
Over the past few years, these intricately designed pieces of jewellery have gained immense popularity, evolving through a myriad of gorgeous designs. With roots tracing back to the Mughal era, jhumkay carry significant history.

"The origin of jhumka earrings dates back to ancient India, where they were favoured by royalty and aristocrats," Abdul Rehman, a Bengali jhumka artisan, told Images.

"Royal women would get them designed how they wanted and pair them with heavy dresses. It was a symbol of wealth and femininity," he added.

"Initially crafted from gold and embellished with precious gems like diamonds and pearls, these ornaments have undergone changes over time. Nowadays, jhumka earrings are made from various materials like silver, brass, and glass, catering to women from different societal backgrounds," Rehman explained.

Today's jhumkay come in several forms and can be crafted through various methods, enhancing their versatility. From the streets of Old Lahore to Meena Bazaar in Karachi, women wear them to keep their softness intact amidst the patriarchal chaos. The jewellery we wear reminds us that no matter how much the world tries to bring us down, in the words of Allama Iqbal, "Wujood-e-zan se hai tasweer-e-kaiynaat mein rung [the colours of the universe will always come together because of our existence]".

[H2]The road to evolution[/H2]
Muhammad Saad, another artisan hailing from Lahore and based in Bahawalpur, has been in the jewellery-making business for 50 years and claims to have one of the oldest jewellery shops in Bahawalpur. He went into the significance of jhumkay in Punjabi culture.

"Regarded as emblems of grace and charm, women wear them to beautify themselves and showcase their heritage," he explained. Saad added that in some Punjabi communities, they're considered status symbols and are gifted to young girls as a rite of passage into womanhood.

Explaining the idea and execution of his work, he shed light on the design process which, according to him, revolves around choosing the right material so that it gets moulded into shape without any hassle.

"Jhumka earrings are available in a range of designs, from simple and classy to detailed and ornate styles. They may include decorations like beads, stones, or delicate filigree patterns. Certain jhumka earrings showcase traditional Punjabi patterns like flowers, paisleys, and birds, while others draw inspiration from contemporary fashion," he said.

"Women today want their jewellery to be exactly like them — beautiful yet strong, so I focus on making earrings that won't make their ears feel too heavy. I have light-weight jhumkay which go well with both formal and fancy dresses. The work has evolved over the years and my craftsmen have understood the assignment well," Saad chuckled.

According to an article by Prachi Raniwala for Natural Diamonds, the origin of this popular earring style can be traced back to ancient temple statues from the Chola Dynasty, which make them as old as 300 BCE.

"As per second-generation jeweller Fleur Van Gelder, whose label Van Gelder Indian Jewellery has been researching Indian heritage jewellery since the 1980s, deities were adorned with typical temple jewellery as a tribute," Raniwala wrote.

"As a consequence of this, traditional temple dancers started wearing the same type of jewels as well," she added.

Mola Baksh, another jhumka craftsman from Afghanistan, confirmed her statement and shared some additional intriguing details.

"After originating in South India, jhumka earrings became widely popular across the country, especially among royal families. However, each royal family put their own spin on the bell shape to create a unique style," he said.

"Queens of the past were expected to wear elaborate jewellery throughout the day, including necklaces, maang tikka, earrings, and bangles made of polished or uncut diamonds. Since jhumkay are hollow inside, they were lighter compared to other jewellery pieces. This made them both stylish and comfortable to wear, promising a fancy look without any hassle."

Since he possessed a lot of experience in making these ornaments, he was well-versed in the history of these intricate pieces of beauty. He explained how the concept of jhumka was derived from kanphool, a classic ear stud in the shape of a flower which was commonly worn with the help of a chain.

"This was frequently paired with a decorative chain known as sankali, which extended into the hair and was secured with a small hook — featuring the familiar jhumka dome, as we recognise it today," he said.

[H2]The literary touch[/H2]
With their constant evolution, jhumkay have been through multiple shapes and touches, they have changed and adopted multiple styles over the years.

If you scroll through Instagram frequently, you must have come across advertisements of jewellery with Urdu poetry and phrases written all over it. Initially, the idea was termed "tacky" by some X (formerly Twitter) users, however, slowly the concept grew and now people frequently wear them.

"The idea came from me and my choices, to be very honest. I have always been a girl who loved flowers, poetry, literature and everything wholesome. So when I started, my sole focus was to bring something new to the market, and also to focus on the essence of womanhood," Sara Gohar, the founder of Gohar Jewels said.

"When I initially started, my Urdu handwriting was not very good. However, with practice and time, it got better. My work was widely appreciated within Pakistan and abroad," she added.

Irenic, another brand, is also doing similar work. The collection on their website is mostly oxidised Afghan jhumkay with an ethnic touch that traces back to the Mughal era. They look extravagant yet feel very light on their ears.

"Women wear jewellery as a statement, and in this fast-paced world, they also need comfort with fashion. So the entire idea of stocking jhumkay which are light on ears but look the same is to combine ease and good looks," Sumbul Jawed, the owner explained.

"The idea was to cater to all kinds of people. The urban population usually prefers the Western kind of jewellery, while the rural side prefers the Eastern side. So a balance of both is what we aim for and so far we've been successful," she said.

All these stories have taught me one thing, and that is the evolution of womanhood in different forms. Each woman is looking for a different thing when it comes to aesthetics, however somehow all of us end at one point, and we're all on the journey of discovering ourselves. A simple piece of jewellery had to evolve because of us, which just indicates that womanhood is a process, and it's happening gradually, taking all of us where we're exactly meant to be.

As the Pakistani woman evolves, so do her jhumkay

A piece of jewellery had to transform because of us, indicating that womanhood is a gradual process, taking all of us where we’re exactly meant to be.

images.dawn.com

 

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[H2]Traditional Dresses:[/H2]
Each country has its own traditional dress. The same is true of Pakistan. Our traditional dress is the shalwar kameez. It is good for all men, women and children of Pakistan. It wears and is equally popular in all provinces (Punjab, Sindh, Balochistan, KPK), cities and villages of Pakistan.

[H3]Sindhi Dresses:[/H3]

 

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[H2]Style trends that ruled 2023[/H2]
From quiet luxury and sleek hair to expressive menswear and body inclusivity, here are the trends we hope carry on into 2024.

Foha Raza
Updated 28 Dec, 2023
[H2]Quiet luxury[/H2]

Stylist Mehek Saeed's Coperni bag screams quiet luxury — Photo: Mehek Saeed/Instagram

Quiet luxury lead the charge in the world of style trends. It is high time to bid farewell to the era of logo-laden accessories and clothing. The focus has now pivoted toward investing in timeless, personalised pieces of clothing or accessories — a hallmark of 2023.

It is time to prioritise quality of fabric, meticulous stitching, and longevity. In 2023, we saw all the 'it' girls and boys of Pakistan endorse this style with great finesse. We anticipate and hope this trend will endure well into 2024 and beyond.

[H2]Dewy makeup[/H2]

Actor Mamya Shajaffar's got the dewy skin look down pat — Photo: Mamya.jsk/Instagram

Among the standout trends of 2023, the reign of dewy makeup captured hearts and international runways alike. Departing from heavy applications and matte lip colours, the year centred on celebrating skin's natural radiance. It embraced a strategic use of highlighters, aiming for that coveted inner beauty glow.

The emphasis wasn't just on glowing skin but also on glossy lips, reflecting a trend that highlighted a fresh, luminous complexion and a subtle yet glamorous finish. Some of the most celebrated makeup artists in Pakistan like Nabila, Omayr Waqar, Natasha Lakhani and the like paid homage to this style in fashion shoots and bridal looks alike.

[H2]Sleek hairstyles[/H2]

Ushna Shah's got the sleek bun down — Photo: Ushna Shah/Instagram

Sleek hairstyles dominated 2023. This trend should continue well into 2024 as it celebrates ease and simplicity, offering looks that are not only chic but also easy to achieve with minimal damage. From polished ponytails to flowing locks, this trend embodies effortless style. A favourite trend of 2023 was beachy waves.

[H2]Androgynous fashion[/H2]

Gender segregated fashion? Rastah's never heard of her — Photo: Rastah/Instagram

Androgynous style stood as an enduring trend in 2023, promising not to fade from the spotlight. This style didn't just offer a diverse range; it continued to pave the way for inclusivity.

Brands like Aomi and Rastah showcased remarkable versatility in their collections. The androgynous style is exceptionally inclusive and blurs the lines between gender segregated fashion. As the year draws to a close, the hope for an even greater prominence of this style in 2024 remains strong.

[H2]Minimal accessories[/H2]

Vardah Aziz's statement earrings are everything — Photo: Vardah Aziz/Instagram

Another style that continues its upward trajectory is minimal accessories. Not only is it budget friendly, it helps lend a sleek, clean look to an outfit without overburdening your personal style. The minimal accessories look promotes sustainability, offering the consumer a chance to really invest in timeless pieces.

Minimal accessories trend also surfaced through delicate wristwatches as seen on numerous celebrities and social influencers.

From quiet luxury and sleek hair to expressive menswear and body inclusivity, here are the trends we hope carry on into 2024.
images.dawn.com

 

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Another style that continues its upward trajectory is minimal accessories. Not only is it budget friendly, it helps lend a sleek, clean look to an outfit without overburdening your personal style. The minimal accessories look promotes sustainability, offering the consumer a chance to really invest in timeless pieces.

Minimal accessories trend also surfaced through delicate wristwatches as seen on numerous celebrities and social influencers.
[H2]Draped silhouettes and statement sleeves[/H2]

Who could forget Mahira Khan's iconic wedding dress sleeves by Faraz Manan? — Photo: Mahira Khan/Instagram


Eastern womenswear this year saw longer hemlines and draped silhouettes with statement sleeves. All of which are total winners. Longer hemlines lend a taller look, offering more sleekness. Drapes and statement sleeves give room for experimentation and personalisation of style.

An excellent example of statement sleeves was seen on Mahira Khan's Faraz Manan bridal this year. It steps out of the everyday boring and gives a touch of femininity to the outfit.

Designers like Saira Shakira and Republic Womenswear opted for such silhouettes in their haute couture lines. High-end designers like Suffuse also incorporated longer hemlines in their pret wear.
[H2]Functional handbags[/H2]

Sabah Bano Malik knows how to rock a functional handbag — Photo: Sabah Bano Malik/Instagram


The retirement of micro bags has been long overdue. Not only are they heavy on the pocket but offer little to no practical use. As we head into 2024, in this crippling economy, there must be more functionality in style. If anything, this year taught us it is time to embrace the crossbody bags, baguettes and totes that add style rolled in with practicality.

[H2]Expressive Menswear[/H2]

Mohtaram knows how to dress men in style — Photo: Mohtaram Co/Instagram

In menswear style, 2023 gave men more space to add drama in their outfits. Gone are the days when men were expected to endorse a mundane suit — morning, noon, and night. This year allowed men to embrace a more dynamic and expressive wardrobe.

There was more diversity for men through addition of prints, signature emblems, accessories and layering options. We saw brands like Republic Menswear, Mohtaram and Munib Nawaz create collection that are expressive and masculine.

[H2]Inclusivity and body positivity[/H2]

We definitely want to see more bodies of all sizes in fashion — Photo: Generation/Instagram

In the lead-up to 2024, the momentum behind body positivity and inclusivity needs to continue and carve out a more substantial presence in the world of style.

Although a few brands in Pakistan have taken steps to broaden their plus-size offerings, there remains an urgent call to prioritise this effort further. Brands such as Generation and Khaadi are championing campaigns that challenge ageism and celebrate diverse body types through their clothing lines. We hope this trend will not only endure in 2024 but even further!

 

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[H2]STYLE: BACK TO SQUARE ONE[/H2]
Maliha Rehman
December 24, 2023

Fahad Hussayn with his mother, showstoppers Mehwish Hayat and Zaviyaar Naumaan Ijaz and models at the Bridal Couture Week solo show on day one


It might matter where you showcase your collection — but what will always matter more is what you show.

In the aftermath of the coronavirus pandemic, with fashion councils having bitten the dust, this is what one can safely conclude. Designers need to put their best fashion foot forward on the catwalk, making good use of the platforms that are available to them.

And the last and only platform still standing in Pakistan, consistently showcasing fashion, is the yearly Pantene Hum Bridal Couture Week (BCW). Credit goes to the Hum TV Network for continuing to put their faith in fashion when no one else is.

For years, fashion purists have been dismissing BCW as a "TV show", organised by the network so that it can have content to air during national holidays and long weekends. There has also always been the critique that collections at BCW are not selected discerningly. The line-up bunches together promising names with atrocious ones. Many a major designer has been known to cock an imperious eyebrow at the BCW catwalk, and declare that this was simply not 'their' market.

However, even Pakistan's most prestigious labels can't always be put on a pedestal. Veteran designers have been known to botch things up at major fashion weeks. And the TV mileage can actually be an added benefit. Many a regular BCW participant vouches for the boost in sales resulting from the mileage generated by the show.

Besides, this is not a time to be condescending.

Competition is tough, with new brands surfacing constantly and gaining eyeballs with the aid of intensive social media marketing. There are no other platforms for collective fashion shows. In the case of the more established brands, the mileage generated by fashion shows that took place some years ago can only go so far.

Designers simply need to get off their high horses, think business and make good use of Hum Bridal Couture Week, the only collective catwalk platform now available to them

It is important for designers to consistently flex their muscles with the aid of innovative campaigns and fashion shows. The latter goal can either be achieved by taking on the Herculean task of hosting a solo show, or by becoming a part of a collective fashion week.

Designers simply need to get off their high horses, think business and make good use of the only platform now available to them, hosted consistently by a major TV network.

The country's slew of newer ateliers realised this a long time ago and avidly take part in the event. Some other established names have also been aware of BCW's immense marketing potential, and are now regular participants. Many more seem to have also gotten the memo.

This year's BCW featured some very forgettable collections. There was often a long, painful deluge of humdrum clothes that had to be endured. But then, occasionally rearing its head, was also creative, covetable design…

You win some …

The event started off with a whopping line-up of 70-odd designs by Fahad Hussayn. Celebrating having completed his 15 years in the industry — Fahad's debut show had also been at BCW — the designer's 'The Collateral Convention' was a nod to his evolving ethos over the years.

There were glittering short dresses, statement capes and jackets, and long, fitted gowns that are more likely to be seen worn by celebrities and models on the red carpet rather than get purchased by the largely conservative Pakistani audience. And then, there were varied options of wedding-wear, running the gamut from flowing gowns with trails to saris, angarkhas, and lehngas paired with cholis, as well as long shirts and a beautiful, old-school chata-patti gharara.

Fahad is well-known for bending his head towards painstakingly detailed embroideries, spinning them in unique, colourful ways, and this collection didn't disappoint. The colours were simply beautiful and the embellishment meshed together in heavy swathes. Also, the dupattas paired with the outfits were in a league of their own, lined with heavy-duty borders. It was all quite regal.

There were also quite a few menswear options — I personally liked the monochrome kurta and pant sets amped up by waistcoats and jackets. The designer's penchant for statement accessories made an appearance here and there — in the form of a funky pair of huge earrings or an elaborate crown worn by a model. One wishes that more accessories could have been visible, but perhaps the designer had his hands full coming up with such an extensive line-up.

It was a strong start to BCW, but there was more to come. It's just that, in order to see some of the better collections, one had to sit through multiple not-very-good ones. I'll be honest — sometimes one literally slept through them!

On the upside, Ali Xeeshan Theatre Studio returned to the catwalk, guns blazing, after a sabbatical of four years. In the designer's signature style, it was a show that was high on energy and theatrics, brought on with the aid of wacky, brightly coloured props.

Nickie Nina


There were models who came out holding elaborate umbrellas, others held stacks of matkas (earthenware water pots) worked with glittering mirrors. Showstopper Ushna Shah stepped out in green bridal-wear, framed by a doli (palanquin) in matching colours.

Beyond the props, the clothes had some very pretty colours to offer. There were bright turquoises, shocking pinks, emerald greens and reds, and then there were lighter shades of pink and ivory, all worked with a kaleidoscope of glinting gota, jamawar borders and hand and machine embroideries.

Ali has never leaned towards the dainty floral patterns — he'd rather make a loud statement with eccentric florals and geometrics. This all new line-up, reminiscent of his aesthetic but unsimilar from his previous collections, did so very well.

Another major name adding clout to this year's BCW line-up was HSY. In commemoration of having completed 30 years in the business, HSY or 'Shero' — one of the country's most renowned designers — presented a line-up of affordable couture, which included pretty lehngas and cholis, flowing skirts and saris and elegant embroidered kurtas, pants and waistcoats for men.

HSY


The embroidery was a mix of machine- and hand-embellishment with luxe fabric forming the canvas, adding a bit of glitter without making the designs overly heavy.

Looking back upon HSY's 30 years — I've written about his work quite frequently during his design journey — there was a time when the designer professed that he only wanted to concentrate on luxurious heirloom wedding-wear. This, then, was his nod to his changing clientele in a changing world — an audience that loved fashion and wanted to look good but also didn't want to spend an arm and a leg while doing so.

A selection of menswear collections didn't disappoint. Emraan Rajput set himself apart as a designer with a keen eye for cuts and a deep understanding of what works in the market. His line-up included a range of Mughal-esque Eastern-wear in a pleasing palette dominated by ivory, beige, gold, black and pristine whites.

The embellishments were neat with just a smattering of bling and the variations in the lowers were interesting, ranging from pajamas to shalwars, straight pants and even a lacha!

Humayun Alamgir


Amping up the collection were the accessories: elaborate turbans, luxurious shawls and dupattas draped carelessly over a silk kurta, and the traditional sehra covering the faces of some of the dulhas (grooms)on the catwalk!

Later, Emraan's show progressed to men's suitings, offering tuxedos, jackets and suits that fit well and oozed glamour. The show ended with actor Ahsan Khan walking out with a placard in support of Palestine, followed by models who all did their final walk wearing keffiyehs. It was a very relevant, very well-put message in support of the people of Gaza and the tragic events unfolding there on a daily basis — and it became one of the event's most viral moments.

Similarly, Humayun Alamgir's collection offered so many interesting options for men. There were hand-embellished kurtas, pants and waistcoats in gorgeous shades of salmon pink, mint green and even an ebullient orange.

Catching the eye were the well-fitted all-black and all-white options — showstopper Junaid Khan Niazi opened the show looking veritably like a Disney prince in an all-white sherwani and straight pants set. Many of the models wore matching khussas with their clothes — the little details are so important in making a design memorable.

Ali Xeeshan Theatre Studio


Marching to his own drumbeat was Munib Nawaz, offering menswear but with a twist. Munib would rather cut a shux — his hybrid version of a sherwani and a tuxedo — than go along with a basic sherwani. He'd rather create colour blocks of embroidery rather than dabble with basic floral patterns, and pair an embroidered jacket with an asymmetric angarkha for drama.

There were some pieces that were perhaps included in the collection purely for the theatrics — the purple-and-green glittery jacket and the elaborate cape with balloon sleeves worn by model Aimal Khan come to mind. Basically, this was Munib Nawaz telling you that, while he could certainly cut a neat, conventional sherwani, he could also cater to the groom who wanted to look like a rockstar at his wedding!

It's commendable that, while the designer must surely be thinking of commerce while designing for BCW's mass audience, he also didn't let go of his edgy signature.

At the other end of the spectrum — and certainly very pleasing to see — was high-street brand Almirah's line-up of beautifully embroidered, pastel-coloured Eastern wear. Some of the designs were worked with mirrors, others with tone-on-tone or lightly coloured embroidery. Kurtas and pants were layered with jackets and sherwanis. It was all very commercially viable without being boring — other brands that were part of BCW should take note.

Also notable were the collections by Nickie Nina and Mehdi, presenting beautifully embellished clothes. One must also acknowledge the work of Haaris Shakeel, who invariably always brings out a neatly embroidered range in a very appealing mix of colours. Other collections that had potential were by Shiza Hassan, Saira Rizwan and Souchaj.

Did one experience a sense of deja-vu while seeing some of the collections, reminding one of other designs by other designers? Certainly. But this critique can be pointed towards the established power players as well as the newer labels. The rampant tendency of Pakistani designers to plagiarise is unfortunately something one can go on and on ranting about.

More significantly, were any of the collections at BCW experimental, introducing new trends to the bridal market? Was there a crazy spurt of creativity that enthralled you completely? Hardly.

You lose some …

Bridal-wear tends to be a realm of design that plays it safe. The focus is more on meticulous craft rather than on wacky, avant-garde statements. Very few young girls aspire to look wacky at their weddings, after all. They prefer traditionally beautiful clothes that they can cherish forever.

This, then, is what designers — even those well-known for their edgy work — tend to create for them. There have been times when even bridal-wear has managed to balance experimentation with viability but, this time at least, the focus was just on beautiful clothes.

Sadly, there was an entire plethora of brands that failed even when it came to neat embroideries and appealing silhouettes. There were plenty of cancans merrily peeping out from beneath lehngas, sometimes so prominent that they looked like trails!

There was a veritable bonanza of untidy, gaudy embellishments and strange styling, such as models' faces completely covered with dangling beads! The modelling pool didn't help — consisting of a gaggle of girls and boys with completely disparate heights, many of them barely managing their way down the ramp.

To be fair, the designing blunders were not limited to the up-and-coming brands. One will not take names — and therefore, avoid a bloodbath — but even some of the most anticipated showcases featured an untidy sherwani, a badly stitched bodice and even a male model ambling down the catwalk in shoes that were clearly too big for him!

And then there were shows that were absolute bores, even more so because of the unimaginative music selected by the designers. Designers, please take note: while it is ideal that you come up with creative collections, if this is beyond your abilities, do try to uplift the general ennui induced by your collections by getting creative with the music.

But does all this mean that established ateliers should not try to showcase at BCW? Unless they have the wherewithal to splurge out on regular solo outings, it would not be business savvy if they don't.

There was a time, long ago, when fashion council chairpersons — of both Karachi and Lahore — used to give a frequent explanations for including a few mediocre collections in the fashion week roster. They would say that when these struggling designers showcased alongside more established ones, they were able to realise how they could improve. When their work proceeded to get ridiculed and another's got praised, they would make sure that they did better next time.

The BCW line-up has highs and lows. But, in the absence of fashion weeks, this could become the stage for showcasing the work of Pakistani fashion's power players, for introducing new debutantes along with some, sadly, ghastly collections. Maybe, like the fashion councils used to suggest, the ghastly ones will improve when they see the work of the better designers.

Also, maybe, just maybe, with more of fashion's 'it' crowd coming on board, the Hum TV Network will decide to revive Hum Showcase, the platform dedicated entirely to original, creative fashion, which receded into the shadows following the shrinking budgets in a post-Covid-19 Pakistan.

Searching out the few stars in a sea of blingy mediocrity, cheering for the few spurts of originality seen in a mostly generic design-scape, it seems we're back to square one in the case of Pakistani fashion.

But if it weren't for BCW, we wouldn't even be there.

Published in Dawn, ICON, December 24th, 2023

 

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CAIA Collection

CÀIA is a versatile brand with a minimal yet chic approach towards fashion that also believes in meticulously crafted delicate details. The brand offers a wide range of fashionable pieces from basic everyday ready to wear to wedding formals.


AZURA

Quintessential craftsmanship of glistening and lustrous floral embellishments makes their mark in ‘AZURA’. A soulful ensemble with delicate and glistening embroidery on a cobalt blue net base. It is paired with a sumptuous net dupatta with accent finishing and tonal raw silk flared pants.


NURIT

 

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MIA

Presented in an impactful palette of onyx, jade black and ivory whites, ‘MIA’ is a contemporary silhouette which is immaculately embroidered with blooming motifs in fine thread work. Paired with a straight fit trouser with a classic slit.


DHALIA

Opulence harmonises in the sumptuous crimson and ruby-hued ‘DHALIA’. A sleek notched collar silhouette which is delicately adorned with contemporary floral embellishments in a multi-hued palette paired with a straight fitted trouser for an easy chic impression.

 

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THE UNENDING LOVE AFFAIR WITH LAWN​

Maliha Rehman

Gul Ahmed

There’s bling. A deluge of pastels. A motley collection of floral embroideries. Chikankari, eyelets, appliqued motifs, borders, flotsam, jetsam. And dupattas that flutter far and wide a la Sri Devi waving her sari pallu atop a scenic mountaintop in Switzerland. Then, there’s a picture of actor Fawad Khan. ‘Men’s Luxury Lawn’, the caption underneath the Instagram image declares, and it immediately catches one’s attention.

Why should a wide selection of elaborate unstitched luxury lawn be available for women alone? Why should men have to contend with limited variations of latha and generic woven fabric? Why should they not have the choice to select from similar ranges of festive-wear?

The Hazure Luxury Lawn collection, an extension of SFK Bridals and featuring Fawad Khan as its muse, proceeds to list a number of options: kurtas worked with tone-on-tone silk thread embroideries etching out paisleys and architectural details, light cotton jackets layered over kurtas and the piece de resistance, an embroidered shawl in raw silk.

Although similar designs may be available in stitched options at menswear ateliers, designer Sadaf Fawad Khan realised that there wasn’t much variety available in men’s unstitched fabrics. “It struck me as strange, particularly because while women can still be grouped into different body types, men need to have more tailored fitting, according to details like shoulder width, height, arm length,” she observes.

Pakistan has an unrelenting obsession with lawn, and from comfort-wear designed for the long hot desi summer, the lawn umbrella has expanded to include evening-wear, festive-wear and dress-it-up-and-wear-it-to-a-wedding-wear

“And just like luxury lawn for women is often so formal that it can even be worn to a day wedding or a dholki, this men’s lawn line also has options that can masquerade as wedding-wear.” She adds: “We have provided the option of bespoke tailoring, particularly for clients living abroad who don’t have access to tailors.”

The marketing potential of a men’s luxury lawn line also drew Sadaf. “I wanted to make something that I would enjoy but would also make noise. If there are five billboards in a popular marketplace and four of them show a woman wearing designer lawn, the fifth one dedicated to men’s lawn immediately gets noticed.”
Lawn nitty-gritties

Sania Maskatiya

Sadaf admits, though, that she is contemplating delving into luxury lawn for women by next year. It’s a market that is hard to resist for any designer or textile mill, where lawn moves beyond its cotton roots to incorporate a dizzying mix of textures and embellishments.

Omar Saleem, director at Portia Fabrics, one of the country’s largest multi-brand stores, states that approximately 12.5 million basic lawn suits have been manufactured this summer, and 3.5 million luxury suits.

“The demand for unstitched lawn has increased,” he says. “The pandemic has led to a rise in online lawn sales. Also, customers have gotten very accustomed to surveying collections on social media, comparing and contrasting designs and pricing before making their purchases.”


The colossal number of brands in the market indicate that competition is tough. For those that do manage to draw in customers, the business can be extremely lucrative, with a constant demand for unstitched fabric in its many variations: basic voile three-pieces, ‘luxury-wear’ that blends lawn with other textures like cotton net, organza, silk and chiffon, and comes with myriad add-ons and all-out festive-wear that may coin itself as ‘lawn’ but is, in actuality, budget wedding-wear.




Hazure

“The demand for unstitched fabric is unparalleled,” says Shamoon Sultan, CEO of high-street heavyweight Khaadi. “Many women enjoy buying unstitched fabric and then designing it according to their particular preferences and size. Still, we have observed a steady increase in the demand for ready-to-wear, not just because the trend for stitched clothing has caught on, but also because people are travelling abroad less often and the rupee has devalued and imported apparel has become very expensive.
“Buying has become more localised,” continues Shamoon. “Nevertheless, there hasn’t been a decrease in the demand for unstitched lawn because of this. At Khaadi, we release three seasonal collections: basic lawn as Essentials, the Signature collection which is more formal, and Khaas which is entirely festive.”

Khaadi also recently re-launched its menswear which it had discontinued three years ago. The Khaadi Man range is yet to expand to men’s pret — one of their most popular lines in the past — and is currently limited to unstitched men’s fabric.

Maria B


“We’ve noticed that over the past few years, a lot of Pakistani men have been converting from ready-made clothing to bespoke designs,” says Shamoon, “so we decided to re-enter the market with an unstitched range and bring out ready-to-wear some time later.”

Shehnaz Basit, Chief Operating Officer at Gul Ahmed, observes, “The basic lawn suit is a summer essential, and while a lot of brands have shifted focus completely to luxury wear, a large contingent of our customer base appreciates a basic, crisp, good quality lawn suit. Festive wear has its own demand but the shalwar-kameez-dupatta is a part of every Pakistani woman’s day wear.

“Over a span of 70 years in the market, we have observed that customers particularly rely on us for good quality fabric as well as design — basic needs, such as that the fabric should not be see-through, are particularly important. Innovative ideas also gain attention, such as one of our recent lines, inspired by the culture of Pakistan’s four provinces.”

At Maria B., another major high-street player, the lawn collections come in a constant procession: basic collections leading on to festive lines with differing price-points. “Customers always want designer lawn to be luxurious but there are varying categories — the less formal collections amped up by good fabric, schiffli embroideries but not too much bling and the very formal lines,” says Maria.

Doing well in the lawn business comes with its learnings and Maria proceeds to recount them. “These are literally unwritten rules that you learn over time! Most women don’t want to have animals or birds as part of the design because they feel that they won’t be able to pray in the clothes, and so we decided a long time ago to not incorporate them. There is no point in alienating a big chunk of your clientele.

“Also, the palette for unstitched fabric has to be created with the season in mind. Summer collections tend to have more pastel shades and with Eid taking place in the summer, the festive lines consistently feature plenty of whites — they always sell extremely well, although customers demand variations. If there was a white chikankari outfit in the last collection, there needs to be a different kind of white next time.”

 

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Beyond the realm of high-street brands with multiple branches, efficient online stores and a loyal mass clientele, there are hundreds of ‘designer’ lawns that surface every year, investing in billboards, social media advertising, celebrities as models and soirees where guests dress up in the lawn and get photographed.

The collections get retailed via the thousands of unstitched fabric retail stores dotted around the country but many don’t make much of a mark — simply because every collection looks the same.

Designer Nomi Ansari, who once dabbled with lawn and released some standout collections, explains: “Investors still approach me but they want the collection to be designed in a certain way, replicating an international trend or whatever is popular in the local market. There are a lot of very pretty prints in the market, some pushed forward as designer lawn, but there is nothing distinctive about them. Being an artist, I can’t curb my creativity and copy someone else’s work.”

There are other designers who have attempted to find a solution by eschewing mass market aspirations. Many years ago, the likes of Sana Safinaz, Rizwan Beyg and Shamaeel Ansari had pioneered designer lawn by collaborating with major mills and creating collections that truly reflected their high-end ethos.

Now, similarly distinctive aesthetics have resurfaced with exclusive ‘limited edition’ ranges that actually look like they have been created by a designer rather than by a marketing team simply coming up with whatever is ‘in’.

Sania Maskatiya, for instance, launched her eponymous lawn range this year, selling solely through her standalone stores and online. The price-points for most luxury lawn suits for women range between 8,000 rupees and 12,000 rupees — Sania’s collection was, meanwhile, priced between 12,500 rupees and 17,500 rupees.

According to the designer, the production costs were higher because the designs were manufactured in more limited numbers and quality control was prioritised. The designs, which resonated with Sania’s luxury-wear aesthetic, did very well.

Similarly, designer Nida Azwer launched her lawn last year, retailing via her stores and online. Other designers retail via multi-brand stores as well as on their own: Zainab Chottani with her classic ‘Chikankari’ luxury lawn and the less formal Tahra range, Zara Shahjahan, Farah Talib Aziz, Elan and the Crimson x Saira Shakira lines. On the high-street, Image fabrics sticks to their signature chikan fabric, retailing through their own stores.

Marching to his own drumbeat, Fahad Hussayn tends to give lawn his personal, eccentric touch, etching rainbows, flora and fauna on bright canvases, and retailing the stitched and unstitched Fahad Hussayn Print Museum lawn online.

The latest Fahad Hussayn lawn collection is titled ‘Lawndemic’ — the designer has always had a way with spinning words — and no better phrase could truly describe Pakistan’s unrelenting obsession with lawn.

From comfort-wear designed for the long hot desi summer, the lawn umbrella has expanded to include evening-wear, festive-wear and dress-it-up-and-wear-it-to-a-wedding-wear. The designs do get repetitive and yet, every year, lawn inches towards slightly new directions — such as lawn for men this year and the more exclusive, curated designer collections.

 

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Style 101: Komal Nasir​

Playing dress up with Komal Nasir's collection

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Komal Nasir has created unique pieces when it comes to summer dupattas, silk shawls and exquisite stoles. Komal’s collection reflects distinctive use of colours, embellishments, delicate zari work and timeless aesthetic. This summer, Komal Nasir launched yet another exquisite collection where pure fabric meets zardozi and intricate embroidery.

Deep Purple and Florals

You can never go wrong with a printed dupatta. This organza dupatta features a bold multi coloured floral print and is adorned with muqaish and a broad gold Zari border all around. The colourful dupatta is paired with a long shirt in a solid purple hue which features a matching broad zari border and matching floral appliqué motifs around the neckline. The outfit is very wearable and perfect for summer dinners or formal evenings.

Black outfit with contrast red tone shawl

One of the best sellers from the collection is this fully embroidered silk screen printing dupatta which features broad zari and tilla hand work all around. The dupatta’s border features patta patti in two contrasting tones to add more character to this exquisite piece.

The dupatta also has a panel of black chiffon brocade with a gold paisley motif. The silk shawl can be worn with any matching solid colour outfit that will make the shawl standout.

 

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Dusky pink
Another elegant and timeless piece from the collection is this dusky pink outfit in pure silk with a matching silk shawl. The outfit and shawl both have a magnificent zari border in dull gold thread and tilla handwork and is embellished with matching muted gold sequence. The shirt also has intricate floral embroidered motifs and is paired with matching trousers. The outfit is ideal for any summer formal occasions.

White net dupatta outfit

Summer whites are a must-have for everyone’s wardrobe. The relaxed breezy silhouette of a long shirt with delicately embroidered net dupatta elevates the style. This pure white cotton outfit has chikan embroidery on the shirt that is smartly stitched with an elegant neckline and is paired with a matching net dupatta which has multi coloured scalloped floral embroidered motifs in blue, red and yellow. A crochet lace border is used to finish the edging of the dupatta. The white net dupatta takes the simplicity of the look up a notch.

 

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ca. 1953: Fancy Dress Parade - Karachi,

 

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Em By Mahwish Haider

Playing dress up with Em By Mahwish Haider

Em by Mahwish explores and experiments with textures, colours, embroideries and silhouettes to bring unique creations ranging from casual seasonal wear, semi and formal pret to bridals. The intricate workmanship and handcrafted designs reflected even the simplest of the designs are a true reflection of an eastern woman and her individuality.


Lavender

Merge into a world of gorgeous lilac with this ravishing kalidaar dress lined with pearls. The paper lawn shirt with lawn lining is paired with crushed palazzos made of pure cotton lawn. It is coupled with a pure organza dupatta and embroidered floral detailing.


Blue Glacier

A paper lawn kurta stitched to perfection with lace and adorned with pearl finishing and flared sleeves adds character to the ensemble. It is paired with khaadi net dupatta. The look is completed with a cotton lawn flared gharara.

 

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Pink Ros’e

An elegant pink shirt made out of finest paper lawn, featuring organza, lace and pleats detailing; enhanced with embroidered cutwork around the neckline. The look is completed with matching cotton lawn pants and chiffon dupatta with organza frills.



Lemon Bouquet

This best seller is an embroidered bird kurta with a classic silhouettes. It is paired with a pure organza dupatta and matching crushed palazzo pants.