[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh

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[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh
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Vietnam may surpass Bangladesh in garment export: report

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Workers are seen at a garment factory in Hung Yen province of Vietnam. Photo: Reuters/file

Vietnam is set to generate $44 billion this year through garment exports, surpassing Bangladesh, which is currently the world's second-largest garment exporter, according to a Vietnamese media report.

Bangladesh's export goal is $4 billion lower than Vietnam's.

Vietnam's apparel and textile sector is set to earn an export revenue of $44 billion this year, up 11 percent year-on-year, and will likely surpass Bangladesh to become the world's second-biggest exporter in the sector.

Meanwhile, Bangladesh set a target of $40.48 billion for garments, out of a total of $50 billion for overall exports, with an 11.99 percent growth for fiscal year 2024-25. Bangladesh does not set garment export targets on the basis of calendar year.

The export target for knitwear and woven items is $21.7 billion and $18.78 billion respectively.

At a press meeting on Wednesday, Cao Huu Hieu, CEO of Vietnam National Textile and Garment Group (Vinatex), the country's biggest garment maker, announced the $44 billion export target.

He stressed that the sector's performance was weak in the first half of 2024 as the global economy underperformed, and the sector received few orders with strict conditions.

However, the sector recovered and thrived in the second half of this year, not thanks to the growing demand, but because of the political issues in Bangladesh promoting firms to make orders in Vietnam. This is a "fortune" for the sector amid challenges, he added.

Mohammad Hatem, president of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), said there was no doubt that Vietnam would surpass Bangladesh as the east Asian country's apparel industry faces no bottlenecks.

He stated that Vietnam finds it easy to increase exports of garment goods because there was no labour unrest, gas crisis, or tax issue there.

However, he continued, Bangladesh faces numerous issues that make it difficult for exports to increase.

Even though labour costs are lower than those of Vietnam, exporters of garments encounter challenges at every turn, making it impossible to take the initiative to increase production, he said.

Given that the Trump administration will impose high tariffs on Chinese goods, Hatem even mentioned the possibility of obtaining new investment from China.

He added that although there was potential to draw Chinese investment in attempts to avoid high duties in the US market, there are a number of barriers that prevent Chinese investment from coming here.

Bangladesh fetched $36.15 billion through garment exports last fiscal year, which was 5.22 percent lower than that in the previous fiscal year.

Of the total export earnings, the knitwear sector earned $19.28 billion while woven garments around $17 billion.​
 

No growth in RMG exports to non-traditional markets​

Staff Correspondent 28 December, 2024, 23:58
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Bangladesh’s readymade garment exports to non-traditional markets slightly declined in the July-November period of FY2024-25 due to reduced knitwear shipments, while earnings from traditional markets, including the United States and the European Union, saw significant growth in the period.

The country’s export earnings from the nontraditional market in the first five months of FY25 fell by 0.77 per cent to $2.76 billion from $2.78 billion in the same period of FY24, according to the Export Promotion Bureau data.

Woven garment exports to nontraditional markets in the period grew by 11.26 per cent to $1.36 billion while knitwear exports declined by 10.23 per cent to $1.40 billion.

The country’s export destination other than the US, the EU, the UK and Canada considered as nontraditional market.

Although the RMG exports to nontraditional markets decreased slightly, the earnings from Japan, India, South Korea, Turkey and Mexico registered a moderate growth in the first five months of FY25.

Bangladesh’s RMG exports to Japan in July-November of FY25 increased by 3.69 per cent to $496.20 million from $478.57 million in the same period of FY24.

RMG exports to India in the five months of FY25 grew by 16.48 per cent to $325.06 million from $279.06 million in the same period of past financial year.

The country’s apparel exports to Turkey in July-November of FY25 increased by 50.54 per cent to $181.85 million while the shipment to Brazil grew by 30.06 per cent to $66.04 million.

RMG exports to Russia in the period fell by 9.34 per cent to $115.04 million while the export earnings from the United Arab Emirates declined by 15.44 per cent to $98.27 million.

EPB data showed that nontraditional markets contributed 17.11 per cent to total RMG exports in the first five months of FY25, down from 19.37 per cent in FY24.

According to the government data, RMG exports to the EU grew by 13.74 per cent while the exports to the US increased by 17.44 per cent in July-November period of FY25.

It also showed that RMG exports to the UK market in the first five months of FY25 recorded growth of 5.84 per cent while the shipment to Canada increased by 13.22 per cent in the period.​
 

Can apparel industry weather any storm? 2024 offers clues

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For the local apparel industry, 2024 was a year marked by challenges, recoveries and a renewed sense of hope as the global market began to brighten -- proving once again the resilience of Bangladesh's apparel might.

Energy crises, dollar shortages, supply chain disruptions, labour unrest centring pay hikes, political uncertainty and a slack law and order situation: the list of domestic challenges for apparel-makers in 2024 was extensive.

In a positive development, Western buyers began returning to Bangladesh following the fierce nationwide movement and political changeover, as inflationary pressures eased and the world recovered from the pandemic and war fallout.

Consequently, Bangladesh's apparel shipments to major export markets like the EU and the USA rebounded. In the July-November period, the country's shipments grew by 16.25 percent year-over-year to $16.11 billion.

"This indicates that the future is brighter now than a few months ago," said MA Jabbar, managing director of DBL Group, whose top clients include Walmart-George, Puma, Esprit, and G-Star.

"I can see a very positive outlook for garment exports," Jabbar added.

The local apparel industry, which fetches the lion's share of the country's export earnings, began 2024 just after emerging from pay hike movements and with increased wages.

Amid the Covid recovery, global markets were then reeling from inflationary woes and the Russia-Ukraine war. There was also the Red Sea crisis and conflict in the Middle East.

Then, in June, the quota reform movement began, blocking apparel shipments to foreign markets.

In July and August, government-imposed internet blackouts and curfews intensified the situation, culminating in a violent political changeover.

This caused deadline delays for apparel-makers, many of whom had to offer discounts to compensate for late shipments.

Amid this struggle, massive labour unrest erupted in major industrial belts on the outskirts of Dhaka in July and continued until October, affecting both production and shipments following the nationwide student movement.

Labourers left production lines, blocked roads and streets and chanted slogans for pay hikes and increments, disrupting the already struggling local apparel manufacturing.

Due to unrest, vandalism and fires, factories in major industrial belts like Gazipur, Savar, Ashulia, Zirani and Zirabo were shut down for several months.

In September, factory owners, labour leaders and workers agreed on a resolution for their 18-point demand.

The minimum wage board increased the annual increment for garment workers to 9 percent from previous 5 -- one of the key labour demands in the 18-point.

The new increment took effect in December and the other demands, except for the amendment of the labour law, have been met too. The government has promised to amend the law by March next year.

For many, the resolution after the unrest meant production resumption, but for a few, it was worse.

For instance, Beximco Group laid off over 40,000 workers from its 16 textile and garment units.

The outgoing year involved correcting export data, as export earnings were previously overstated due to incorrect calculations.

In a final calculation, the central bank said that the garment sector's earnings in fiscal 2023-2024 were $36 billion, rather than the $47 billion calculated by the state-owned Export Promotion Bureau (EPB).

The outgoing year was challenging but also a time for business recovery as work orders rebounded with political stability, said Faruque Hassan, a former president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

Hassan said international retailers and brands are now returning with work orders as sales in the USA and EU have grown with the rebounding of retail sales.

According to BDL Group's Managing Director Jabbar, 2024 was one of the highest-exporting years, as they received massive work orders from international clothing retailers and brands.

"Now we really need to do more for better growth of the sector," Jabbar told The Daily Star over the phone.

He recommended establishing a dedicated EPB-like institution for the garment sector and ramping up investment in man-made fibre and sportswear segments to capture more global markets.

Meanwhile, Rizwan Rahman, a former president of the Dhaka Chamber of Commerce and Industry (DCCI), called for political stability for business growth.

He said the law and order situation has not improved to the expected level and is still affecting the business environment.

According to former BGMEA president Hassan, apart from political and labour unrest, the perennial power and energy crisis severely impacted investment inflow into the sector. As a result, many jobs could not be created in the sector this year.

Hassan also suggested investing more in man-made fibre to get better prices and increase exports, as the demand for specialised garments is increasing worldwide.​
 

RMG workers withdraw protests in Ctg

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Photo: Md Rajib Raihan

Workers and staff of various units of Pacific Jeans Ltd at Chattogram Export Processing Zone today withdrew their two-day protest after the owner pledged to meet their demands.

CEPZ Executive Director Md Abdus Sobhan said the managing director of the company met with the workers around 2:30pm.

The management announced a holiday for today and urged all the workers and staff to join work tomorrow, he said.

Earlier, thousands of workers continued their protests for a second consecutive day today, pressing for additional demands beyond those addressed by the company yesterday.

Following daylong demonstration by workers on Saturday, Managing Director Syed M Tanvir issued a circular saying that the company has agreed to halt forced resignations and inter-unit transfers, meeting two of the workers' demands.

The workers today demanded to fulfil their other demands including termination of some senior officials of the management, raise in different allowances including tiffin and transport allowances, full presence bonus and over time for the staff (team leaders)​
 

Home textile exports bounce back
Taka devaluation, increased production capacity boost shipment

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The export of home textiles is on the path to recovery after nearly one year because of the devaluation of the local currency, increased production capacity and improvement in gas supplies to some extent.

Home textile exports grew by 7.85 percent year-on-year in the July-December period of the current fiscal year to $410.81 million while it was in the negative even two to three months ago.

Apart from garment items, home textile is one of the three new sectors whose exports crossed $1 billion recently. The two other sectors are jute and jute goods and leather and leather goods.

Home textile exports showcased strong growth of 20.47 percent year-on-year in December to reach $83.98 million, according to data from state-run Export Promotion Bureau (EPB).

Home textile mainly refers to carpets, rugs, floor coverings, curtains, cushion covers, napkins, towels, bedspreads, furnishing fabric, table linen, bed linen, sheets and pillowcases, blankets, shower curtains, aprons, and wallpapers.

Its export fell sharply almost year-round in 2023 and 2024 as the local exporters did not book new work orders for an abnormal price hike of gas.

The Bangladesh government suddenly hiked gas prices by 150.41 percent in February 2023, from Tk 11.98 per unit to Tk 30 per unit, and a good volume of work orders shifted to Pakistan.

Work orders for home textile are booked for one or two seasons in bulk quantities.

With the abnormal gas price increase, exporters could not manage the cost of production, and they did not run their units at full capacity and refused some work orders, which went to Pakistan.

However, the devaluation of the local currency against the US dollar, increased spinning capacity and improvement in gas supplies to some extent helped pull back the business confidence of local exporters.

The shipment of home textile is also returning to its previous volumes gradually.

Also, the fall of inflation in Europe and the US has also been helping to recover home textile exports, said Md Shahidullah Chowdhury, executive director of Noman Group, which accounts for more than 70 percent of Bangladesh's home textile exports.

"We also increased our capacity to an extent with the improvement of gas supply, and exports from the company are growing now," Chowdhury said.

Last month, total home textile exports from his group reached nearly $27 million while it was worth $22 million in the previous month.

He also said the gradual restoration of normalcy in Bangladesh and political unrest in Pakistan also played a role in the restoration of home textile exports.

The country's home textile exports had crossed $1 billion in FY21, registering a whopping 49.17 percent year-on-year growth.

That momentum continued the following year, with exports rising by another 40-odd percent to $1.62 billion.

However, the gas crisis upended that trend the following year, with home textiles fetching $1.09 billion, down by almost a third.

Bangladesh was struggling to recover lost work orders in the home textile segment, a significant volume of which was shifted to Pakistan nearly two years ago.

This shift occurred mainly due to the sudden doubling of gas prices in Bangladesh and significant devaluation of the Pakistani rupee against the US dollar.

More recently, labour unrest in industrial belts and months of political unrest in Bangladesh have contributed to lower receipts.

Moreover, Pakistan possesses some inherent advantages, such as being the world's seventh-largest producer of cotton, according to Statista.

Pakistan also enjoys benefits under the EU's Generalised Scheme of Preferences Plus (GSP+) while Bangladesh only enjoys standard GSP facilities.

The number of home textile mills has also increased, especially smaller units, said Monsoor Ahmed, former chief executive officer of the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA).

For instance, previously six to seven major textile mills used to export home textile, but the number of home textile exporters is more than 25 now, including the small units, he added.

Khorshed Alam, chairman of Little Group, a textile miller, said the production of home textile increased and exports also grew.

At the same time, a few mills stopped production as they were losing work orders during the shifting of work orders to Pakistan.

BTMA President Showkat Aziz Russell said the devaluation of the Taka against the US dollar was the main factor for the improvement in the home textile sector, which helped the exporters to be more competitive.

Moreover, more than 9 million new spindles have been installed over the last few years, which boosted the production in the textile sector.

The target is to install 15 million spindles, and it is expected that the installation of more than six million more spindles can be completed by the end of this year, which will also boost the production of primary textile, including home textile, he added.

"The gas supply improved to a bit, but it is not consistent yet," Russell said, adding that if the gas supply was restored at an adequate pressure, the primary textile sector's investment and production would also grow.​
 

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