[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh

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[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh
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Why this labour unrest in RMG sector?
Atiqul Kabir Tuhin
Published :
Sep 11, 2024 22:18
Updated :
Sep 11, 2024 22:18


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The ongoing labour unrest since August 29, which has led to several factory closures across the industrial hubs of Ashulia and Gazipur, has brought the lucrative Bangladesh readymade garment (RMG) sector to a critical crossroads, sending warning signals to buyers throughout the world.

This turmoil follows a period of political instability in July, from which the industry was hoping to recover after the formation of the interim government on August 8. However, the unrest, marked by attacks, property damage, looting, and arson in various factories, has raised concerns about industrial security. This disruption comes at a time when factories are under contract and immense pressure to meet deadlines for winter orders from global buyers, further exacerbating the crisis.

The reasons behind the unrest are the subject of much debate. The demands voiced by garment workers include equal opportunities for men and women, increased wages, improved benefits, and lighter workloads. In addition, delays in wage payments, alleged blacklisting of dismissed workers, and contentious issues surrounding unionisation have fuelled anger and dissatisfaction. Factory owners, on the other hand, claim the unrest is not primarily driven by the workers but by external elements, particularly political groups seeking dominance, especially over the scrap and rejects business. These groups, they argue, have incited disturbances to exert pressure on factory owners. A lack of adequate police presence has allowed the unrest to escalate and spread rapidly, presenting a grave threat to industrial peace and stability.

To quell the unrest, on September 2 the government deployed the army and police. While this intervention has restored some degree of order, the situation remains volatile and fragile, with approximately 100 factories in the Ashulia industrial zone alone forced to close on September 9 due to continued violent protests. This highlights that security measures alone cannot resolve the underlying grievances of the workers. There is an urgent need for factory management to engage in meaningful dialogue with the workers to address legitimate demands, as unrest in one factory can easily trigger a wave of disruptions across the sector.

This labour unrest, though seemingly localised, has far-reaching implications for both the economy of Bangladesh and the international reputation of its RMG sector. As the country's economic cornerstone, the garment industry contributes hugely as in 2023 it fetched over $47 billion from exports. Any prolonged disruption threatens not only the livelihoods of millions of workers but also the nation's macroeconomic stability. Bangladesh, as the world's second-largest garment exporter, faces intense global competition, particularly during peak seasons. Reports of international buyers diverting their orders to Cambodia, Indonesia, and elsewhere due to the instability should serve as a wake-up call for both the government and industry leaders.

Additionally, the unrest has diverted attention from other critical issues, such as energy shortages affecting the RMG sector as well as its backward linkage industries. The failure to address these challenges promptly will have ripple effects throughout the economy, exacerbating the difficulties already faced by the RMG sector.

The interim government, led by Nobel laureate Muhammad Yunus, has pledged to restore order and undertake necessary reforms. However, the urgency of stabilising the situation quickly cannot be overstated. Bangladesh's low-cost labour, while a competitive advantage, is insufficient to offset the risks associated with an unstable political environment. Restoring the confidence of international buyers will require more than security measures - it demands a comprehensive strategy that tackles the root causes of unrest, including workers' rights, governance, and corruption.

The sector should prioritise not only meeting international demands but also ensuring fair treatment of its workforce and bolstering security and governance in industrial zones. Failure to address these concerns risks deepening the current crisis, threatening not just the RMG industry, but also the entire economy.

The challenges facing the interim government are monumental. Political stability and law and order need to be restored swiftly if Bangladesh is to retain its standing in the global garment industry. The administration must collaborate closely with industry leaders to ensure that production timelines are met and that necessary governance reforms are implemented. Restoring the country's reputation as a reliable garment producer ought to be a top priority.

Moreover, the government should tackle the underlying issues that have plagued the sector for years, particularly corruption and political entanglement. While factory owners may have benefitted from political patronage in the past, these connections have now become liabilities. Reforming trade associations and ensuring transparency in business practices would go a long way towards restoring credibility in Bangladesh's garment sector.

Bangladesh's RMG industry stands at a pivotal juncture, facing both opportunities and challenges, especially as the country approaches graduation from its Least Developed Country (LDC) status. To thrive in the future, the industry will need to diversify its product range, embrace innovation, invest in technological upgrades, and enhance workforce skills. Collaboration among workers, factory management, and government remains essential to overcoming these challenges and sustaining the sector's growth.

Resolving disputes through dialogue could create a win-win situation for all stakeholders in the RMG industry. Positive relationships between workers and employers are crucial for fostering an environment of trust and mutual respect. This, in turn, will motivate workers and contribute to the sector's growth. By fostering a harmonious industrial environment, Bangladesh's RMG industry can navigate its current challenges and continue to play a crucial role in the country's economic development. The time for decisive action is now, and all stakeholders need to rise to the occasion.​
 

Deeper crisis feared as 219 factories shut

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With 219 garment factories shut in Ashulia yesterday amid worker unrest along the industrial belts, Bangladesh's apparel sector is feared to get into a deeper crisis if production does not resume on Saturday after the weekend.

Officials see conspiracies behind the unrest and believe "real workers" are not involved in the vandalism of some factories, while labour leaders blame the influence of partisan politics and control over fabric scrap trade for the situation.

Meanwhile, the inaction of a demoralised industrial police force and the "unusual demands" of the workers have frustrated the owners, who are under pressure from international buyers ahead of the next holiday season in the West.

Of the factories closed yesterday, 86 were shut indefinitely under the Labour Act, which empowers the employer to shut any unit in case of a strike.

The remaining 133 factories were closed as they declared a general holiday, said Md Sarwar Alam, superintendent of Ashulia Industrial Police-1.

The closed factories included 107 members of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association, mainly in Ashulia and Zirabo, said Khandoker Rafiqul Islam, president of the association.

Although a few committees involving local politicians were formed in Ashulia to resolve the crisis through discussions, industry owners are worried about the safety of their factories, he said.

Industrial police have yet to start fully functioning more than one month after the ouster of the Awami League government, further fuelling safety concerns. Harsh measures like internet shutdown amid street protests during the mass uprising already hampered production and orders heavily.

Owners say they are not getting help from the industrial police even after lodging complaints. The number of personnel patrolling the industrial zones is inadequate.

Army personnel have been deployed to the industrial zones, but they do not have the magistracy powers to arrest protesters, said Shams Mahmud, managing director of Shasha Denims.

"We aren't getting the confidence to run the factories because of safety concerns," Mahmud told The Daily Star over the phone.

Foreign buyers are putting pressure for timely delivery but the factories are shut, said a frustrated Mahmud. Many shipments may get cancelled, or the buyers may demand big discounts or expensive air shipments, he added.

Many international retailers and brands are cancelling buying trips because of the unrest although this is the peak time to confirm work orders for the next winter season, exporters said.

"So, a massive impact of the unrest will be noticed in the next winter season," Mahmud said.

A senior officer of the industrial police, requesting anonymity, said they are conducting joint patrols in the industrial zones and responding to incidents. Industrial police are trying to be fully functional, the officer added.

AK Azad, chairman and CEO of Ha-Meem Group, echoed the views of Mahmud. He said most of the incidents were taking place in Ashulia and local groups were involved.

Police are not working, which is helping the unrest in one factory to spread to the others, said a garment exporter based in Narayanganj's Rupganj who asked not to be named.

In some cases, political issues are also involved, the exporter said.

For instance, he said, the unrest in the Beximco garment factory has political influence as one of its owners, Salman F Rahman, was an adviser to ousted prime minister Sheikh Hasina.

He also said that buyers, worried and frustrated over the situation, are sending a lot of queries to know about the condition of work orders for the next season.

Giant Group Managing Director Faruque Hassan claimed the ongoing unrest is not about wages because the pay was hiked in December last year.

In many cases, the workers are demanding the removal of senior officials, equal ratio in appointment of male and female workers, he said.

The workers are placing "unusual demands" in some cases, said Md Saleudh Zaman Khan, vice-president of Bangladesh Textile Mills Association.

For example, he said, protesters demanded the recruitment of 300 workers when a factory in Narayanganj needed only 20. The factory management decided to hire a little over 20 workers, but the protesters did not return to work, Zaman said.

Worker leaders pointed the finger at partisan politics and conflict in fabric scrap trade for the unrest. They said a section of fabric scrap traders were trying to maintain control by using the workers.

Many are taking advantage of weak law and order, said Md Towhidur Rahman, president of the Bangladesh Apparel Workers Federation.

If the factories do not reopen fully on Saturday, the sector may face a deeper crisis in near future, he said.

Nazma Akter, president of Sammilito Garment Sramik Federation, said many workers are also involved in partisan politics. In some cases, outsiders are instigating them to launch unrest, she said.

She recommended holding a dialogue among the stakeholders to find a way out of the crisis.

Labour and Employment Secretary AHM Shafiquzzaman believes those involved in the vandalism of factories are not real workers.

The secretary said he held a meeting with BGMEA leaders and union leaders at Tongi yesterday as part of measures to improve worker-owner relations.

Asif Mahmud, youth and sports adviser to the interim government, suspects a conspiracy behind the ongoing unrest in the garment sector.

Speaking at a media briefing at the Foreign Service Academy yesterday, he said that around 20 percent of total orders have been cancelled.

"And we have witnessed that the buyers of a certain country have been desperately lobbying to get those orders," he said, citing Secretary Shafiquzzaman.

Asif said that workers prevented attacks on factories by a group called Bekar Jubo Songho, or Unemployed Youth Association, and one leader of the association arrested in Netrokona was found to be involved with AL's student front Chhatra League.

He admitted that the protesting workers have some genuine demands besides the conspiracies.

The adviser also warned of strict action against fabric scrap traders who are fuelling the unrest.​
 

Authorities must immediately address apparel sector unrest
13 September, 2024, 00:00

THE ongoing labour unrest in the apparel sector that has led to the shutdown of more than a hundred factories is gravely concerning for owners and employees in the sector and the economy. The unrest at a time when fresh orders come aplenty is feared to have a lasting negative impact on the sector. September and October are crucial for the sector as most western buyers place orders in these two months targeting Christmas. Any disruption now in the sector, one of the pillars of the economy, will give benefits to Bangladesh’s competitors, which naturally eye to seize the market. Labour unrest shut down, as New Age reported on September 11, 114 factories in Ashulia and Gazipur industrial areas. Workers of several factories in the Beximco Industrial Park in Gazipur on September 11 went on demonstration demanding their wage for August and tried to mobilise workers of other factories, leading to a clash. About 32,000 workers in the Beximco Industrial Park had rallied for their overdue wage for August and although the authorities issued payment on September 10, many workers did not receive the wage. The workers also burnt a factory in Kashimpur after a clash between two worker groups.

In the wake of the unrest that has continued for a few days, at least 60 factories announced a paid general holiday while 54 units announced closure for an indefinite period. It is feared that about 100,000 workers might get laid off if the shutdown continues and if work orders do not come. Factory owners have, meanwhile, alleged that the unrest is created by outsiders and is politically motivated. While the allegation appears a typical response of owners, it bears some truth as a leader of the Chhatra League, the student wing of the Awami League, was arrested on September 8 after a provocative speech in front of apparel workers at Savar had gone viral. This suggests that the unrest might be, to some extent, politically motivated and outsiders, local or foreign, might have attempted sabotage. The authorities certainly need to examine the allegation and assess the situation. But at the same time, the authorities need to address the labour rights issue that continues to be a cause for concern. Bangladesh cuts a sorry figure when it comes to labour rights. The Global Rights Index has ranked Bangladesh among the 10 worst countries for workers for consecutive years since 2017.

The government needs to address the issue efficiently, effectively and immediately to bring stability in the sector. The authorities must provide security for industrial areas and investigate whether the unrest is an act of sabotage. The authorities, however, should by no means be high-handed to workers and heed genuine grievances of the workers. The labour unions also need to come forward and help bring stability in the sector.​
 

130 factories remain open in Ashulia on weekend

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Photo: Palash Khan/File

A total of 130 factories in the Ashulia industrial area, where there is no worker unrest, remained open today despite the usual weekly holiday, due to pressure from work orders.

Md Sarwar Alam, superintendent of Ashulia Industrial Police-1, confirmed the matter to our Savar correspondent this noon.

He said that there are a total of 1,863 factories in the Ashulia industrial area, most of which are garment factories. Due to heavy work order pressure, production continued today in 130 factories, mostly garment factories.

"In these factories, there are no issues with the workers, and due to the high volume of work orders, the owners decided to continue production even on holidays," said SP Sarwar Alam.

SP Sarwar Alam said the decision to keep some factories open during the holidays was made by the owners to compensate for the losses caused by recent worker protests. About 30 percent of the total factories in Ashulia area operated today.

He further said additional law enforcement personnel were deployed in front of the factories to prevent any untoward incidents.

Worker unrest has been ongoing in the Ashulia industrial area for the past two weeks due to various worker demands.

Yesterday, a total of 219 garment factories were declared shut in Ashulia Industrial area so far today due to the labour unrest. Of these, 86 factories were shut by the authorities for indefinite period under Section 13 (1) of the Labour Act, and the remaining 133 factories remained closed as they declared a general holiday.

However, the 219 factories that were closed yesterday remain closed today.​
 

Bring back normalcy in the RMG sector
Understand and act to calm the frustrations in industrial belts

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VISUAL: STAR

We are gravely concerned about the ongoing unrest in our RMG industry as workers continue to protest in Ashulia, Zirabo, Savar and Gazipur over payment of arrears, better pay, job regularisation, increase of allowances and benefits, etc. According to the BGMEA, on September 12 alone, 219 garment factories in Gazipur and Ashulia were closed down due to workers' protests. Reportedly, in many areas, the protests took a turn for the worse as a result of unresolved negotiations with factory owners over their demands. Workers allegedly vandalised many factories; some of them were also set on fire. The question is: how has the situation come to this point?

According to industry insiders as well as some labour leaders, outsiders and political elements are trying to instigate the workers. It is imperative that, under the circumstances, a proper investigation is conducted immediately to identify the external factors responsible for the vandalism and destruction of properties. Owners have also pointed out that the industrial police are yet to start functioning fully in the industrial belts since the Hasina government was ousted around six weeks ago, fuelling safety concerns. This prolonged state of insecurity must be addressed by the interim government urgently, and the role of the industrial police—who have been used by successive governments to quell workers' protests—must also be re-evaluated to restore trust in the force.

Even if the allegations of external forces trying to create instability in the sector are true, we need to understand and address the underlying frustrations of the workers. During the 15 years of Awami League rule, we saw how the workers' legitimate demands were routinely disregarded. Last year, when the workers demanded Tk 23,000-25,000 as their monthly minimum wage, the government fixed it at Tk 12,500 in compliance with the proposal made by RMG factory owners. Sadly, many owners are still depriving their workers of their dues and aggravating an already volatile situation. Meanwhile, RMG factories are yet to institute an equitable mechanism for negotiations between workers and owners. Such practices must come to an end and workers' grievances must be properly addressed.

As production in a lot of factories remains suspended, there are concerns among the owners about financial losses they might incur, which will eventually affect our economy and the workers at large. There are, in fact, real reasons to worry as the disruption in production has already led many international buyers to cancel their trips to the country to finalise work orders for the coming seasons. Under the circumstances, we urge the interim government to act promptly to understand and act on the simmering frustrations on the ground. Its decision to review the workers' wage through the minimum wage board is a step in the right direction. The government also said it would consider inflation and the rising prices of essentials while reviewing the minimum wage, which is only the right thing to do. It also needs to take steps to improve security at the RMG factories, support the manufacturers in need, address the international buyers' concerns, and ensure stability and competitiveness in the sector.​
 

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