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[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh

G Bangladesh Defense
[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh
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EU competition major challenge before garment sector
Published :
May 11, 2025 00:06
Updated :
May 11, 2025 00:06

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Bangladesh's ready-made garment sector, the backbone of its export economy, faces its most severe challenge in decades. The impending 37 per cent US tariff, set to take effect after June 9, 2025, would be damaging enough on its own. But the greater threat lies in Europe where 79 per cent of Bangladesh's RMG exports currently go. As competitors like China, Vietnam and Cambodia face similar US tariff pressures, they are inevitably turning to the EU market as their alternative destination. This is bad news for Bangladesh. Just as its US market access shrinks, its primary export destination faces a flurry of competitors vying for market share. The EU's importance cannot be overstated as it absorbs nearly four times more Bangladeshi garments than the US market. What was once Bangladesh's safe harbour is about to become its most contested battleground.

The warning signs of growing competition have been visible for years. As reported in this daily, between 2012-2023, China increased its EU apparel share from 56 per cent to 68 per cent, Vietnam from 26 per cent to 32 per cent and Cambodia made the most dramatic leap from 40 per cent to 63 per cent. These weren't random fluctuations but strategic shifts by countries preparing for exactly this scenario. Now, with the US effectively closing its doors to affordable garments through punitive tariffs, these countries have no choice but to redouble their efforts to catch European market. Unfortunately for Bangladesh, which relies heavily on EU market access for foreign currency earnings, this surge in competition could be devastating. The real threat now lies not just in losing the US market, but in losing ground in Europe.

What follows is an intense race to the bottom. Greater competition means thinner margins and thinner margins threaten the sustainability of the entire sector. The pressure is already evident in the declining per-kg price of Bangladeshi garments in the EU which reportedly dropped by 4.84 per cent over the past year. This decline indicates that exporters are being forced to sell more at lower prices just to stay in the game, and as the competition becomes more severe, the price will fall further. Experts also warn of competitive currency devaluations where export-dependent economies may artificially devalue their currency in order to stay price-competitive. Meanwhile, Bangladesh's impending graduation from Least Developed Country (LDC) status in 2026 will strip away its duty-free EU access at the worst possible time. The irony is that Cambodia, one of Bangladesh's competitors in the RMG exports, will retain these privileges as it remains an LDC. That gives Cambodia a distinct edge just when Bangladesh's competitiveness is set to weaken.

So what can Bangladesh do to navigate this increasingly treacherous trade environment? The first task is to address the US market. No visible progress has been made in reaching a trade understanding with the US in the two months of tariff pause that elapsed. Given that the US rationale for tariffs is the export-import imbalance, Bangladesh needs to urgently identify potential imports from the US to build a more balanced trade relationship. For the EU, Bangladesh must secure a new trade agreement before LDC graduation, following the model of Vietnam's EU FTA. Simultaneously, Bangladesh must actively diversify its export destinations beyond the traditional strongholds of the EU and the US. Countries like Japan, Canada and emerging markets offer potential avenues and should be actively cultivated. Most critically, Bangladesh needs a export strategy on a war footing involving all stakeholders, from government to manufacturers to trade bodies. Without swift, strategic action, Bangladesh risks losing its position it has built in the global apparel trade through decades of effort.​
 

Denim exports to US, EU up 56pc, 32pc
Monira Munni
Published :
May 13, 2025 00:36
Updated :
May 13, 2025 00:36

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Locally-made denim items' exports to the two major destinations - the US and the European Union (EU) - during the first two months of 2025 witnessed significant growth of over 56 per cent and more than 32 per cent, respectively.

Bangladesh fetched $138.75 million from denim exports to the US in this period, up by 56.33 per cent from the earnings of $88.75 million in the corresponding period of 2024, according to data compiled by the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

US imports of denim items from Mexico, Pakistan, Vietnam, and China recorded 16.27 per cent, 33.29 per cent, 6.49 per cent, and 6.99 per cent growth, respectively, in this period.

On the other hand, Bangladesh's denim exports to the EU during this period stood at $285.52 million, recording 32.43 per cent growth from $215.60 million earned in the corresponding months of 2024.

Pakistan, the second largest denim exporter to the EU, logged 48.11 per cent growth in this period, followed by Turkey at 0.06 per cent, Tunisia at 4.68 per cent, and Cambodia at 55.24 per cent, data shows.

Bangladesh remained the top denim supplier both to the US and the EU in 2024 as the country fetched the highest $675.65 million and $1.28 billion, respectively, from the two destinations, data shows.

Yeasin Al Faisal, manager at Argon Denims Ltd, told The Financial Express the denim business is growing and they are not facing any impact of the new US tariff regime as they mostly ship goods to the EU.

Argon Denims is participating in the 18th edition of Bangladesh Denim Expo that kicked off on Monday at the International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB) in the capital.

Faisal said they participated in the show to display their products and innovation and also to know about what other suppliers are showcasing.

The two-day event aims at helping the industry enhance its capacity and develop innovation to navigate the uncertain times of tariff and trade war.

A total of 57 exhibitors from 13 countries, including Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, China, Turkey, Spain, Italy, Vietnam, and the US, joined the show to display their latest innovation and goods.

Sanaul Haque, executive director of Azlan Denim Ltd, a concern of Sim Group, said they are expanding their capacity as the demand for denim items is increasing.

Currently, they produce 1.6 million yards of denim fabrics monthly, which will increase to 2.50 million by July, he added.

Abdul Kader Khan, managing director of Khan Accessories and Packaging Company Ltd, said they are exhibiting their accessory items as some of their buyers who have denim business worldwide insisted them to join the fair.

As denim exports are growing, he expects to get new buyers too.

When asked, Chao Ji, sales manager of Black Peony Textile Co Ltd, a Chinese denim fabric producer, said they have been participating in the denim show for the last six years and have their own office in Dhaka.

"Bangladesh is a potential market, and business is growing slowly here with good prices," he said.

Brant Tong, sales manager of XDD Textile, a Vietnamese denim fabric maker, said there are a number of denim factories and washing plants in Bangladesh.

"So, there is huge demand for denim fabric, and we are here in search of more business opportunities," he said.

Speaking about the US new tariff regime, he said business in Vietnam slowed in recent times with a decline in work orders as buyers are now in a wait-and-see situation.

This is because no one knows what would happen after the three-month pause of the proposed US tariffs, added Tong.

The majority of his factory's denim production is destined for the US, he said, adding that buyers are waiting to see further action or negotiations with the US.

He also said some of the buyers have already postponed their bookings.

Md Amdadul Hoque, country representative (Bangladesh) of Diamond Denim, a Pakistani denim factory, said business in May and June usually remains slow and that is what is happening now.

He, however, said they have to bear the cost of an additional 10 per cent hike in tariffs imposed by the US.

Nauman Ahmad, general manager of marketing (denim business) at Azgard Nine Limited, another denim fabric maker based in Pakistan, said there are uncertainties in the US market for all supplier countries - not only Pakistan but also others in Asia.

This is the biggest challenge for the current time, he said.

They have business mostly with the EU, he said, adding their business is moderate and they have not faced any negative impact for the US tariff so far.​
 

Local RMG to remain competitive even if tariffs rise
Believes international backward linkage companies for denim

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The 18th edition of Bangladesh Denim Expo at the International Convention City Bashundhara in Dhaka will come to a close tomorrow. Photo: collected

Bangladesh should improve garment quality and delivery speed amidst intense competition in global supply chains arising from US President Donald Trump's recent reciprocal tariffs, said some international traders today.

Bangladesh has the opportunity to retain its competitive edge due to its large-scale production capacity, something international clothing retailers and brands always take into consideration, they said.

China and Vietnam are facing higher tariffs than Bangladesh in the US market, but there are others facing far less, such as India, Pakistan, Kenya, Jordan and Egypt, they said.

The latter do not have high production capacities, for which they cannot cater to large-volume work orders, they added.

"There is no way to replace Bangladesh because of its production capacity… It is not a matter of tariffs only," said Matteo A Urbini, managing director of Italy-based Soko Chemicals.

He was talking to The Daily Star while attending the 18th edition of Bangladesh Denim Expo at the International Convention City Bashundhara in Dhaka.

Urbini supplies a technology based on a chemical called "hydrogel" for washing denim fabrics to 60 companies in Bangladesh.

The technology is said to require just eight litres of water to wash one kilogram of denim fabric, whereas conventionally 80 litres are required.

Bangladesh is still competitive, said Herve Denoyelle, a representative of French hemp and flax fibre manufacturer The Flax Company, when asked about alternative clothing sourcing destinations to Bangladesh.

Bangladesh and China will remain competitive for mass consumption. Once the final rates of US tariffs are decided after the ongoing 90-day pause, business will grow again, he said.

Products from China and Vietnam will become more expensive because of their higher tariff rates, and Bangladesh should focus on recycled and sustainable products, he said.

His company produces 8,000 tonnes of fibre a year and supplies nearly 100 tonnes to 10 companies in Bangladesh for the manufacture of denim fabrics.

Robert Deakin, sales director of China-based Deyao Textile, which manufactures denim fabrics, said he was cautiously optimistic about Bangladesh.

The final tariff rates are yet to be decided, and business will prevail even if a 37 percent tariff is imposed on Bangladeshi products, he said.

The two-day exposition has brought 57 exhibitors from 13 countries, including India, Pakistan, China, Turkey, Spain, Italy, Vietnam, the United Arab Emirates, Germany, Switzerland and the USA, according to a statement from the organiser.

"Bangladesh has emerged as the fastest-growing apparel exporter to the United States in the first quarter of 2025, posting the highest year-on-year growth of 26.64 percent," said Mostafiz Uddin, founder and CEO of Bangladesh Denim Expo.

This placed Bangladesh ahead of other major exporters such as India (24.04 percent), Pakistan (17.49 percent), Vietnam (13.96 percent) and China (4.18 percent), he said.

Bangladesh is the largest denim exporter to both the US and Europe, he added.​
 

Bangladesh set to remain world’s top cotton importer in MY26

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Bangladesh is on track to retain its status as the world's biggest cotton importer in the marketing year (MY) 2025-26, with imports projected to reach 8.5 million bales, according to a record-setting forecast by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA).

Vietnam is set to follow closely with 8 million bales, marking an all-time high for both countries, as per the USDA's latest Cotton: World Markets and Trade report.

The report highlights a modest rebound in global cotton consumption, which is expected to hit a five-year high of 118.1 million bales. This resurgence is attributed to stable economic activity, particularly in major textile-exporting countries such as Bangladesh and Vietnam.

For Bangladesh, the surge in cotton imports reflects the continued expansion of its ready-made garment (RMG) industry — the backbone of its export economy.

In the first 10 months of FY25, Bangladesh's RMG exports grew 10.86 percent year-on-year to $30.25 billion, according to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data.

Mohammad Hatem, president of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), said Bangladesh's decision to import more cotton from the US is part of a broader strategy to reduce the trade gap between the two countries.

He noted that the record volume of cotton imports would also strengthen Bangladesh's case for securing duty-free access for its RMG products in the US market.

"The government has already taken necessary initiatives in this regard," Hatem said.

He further stated that US cotton is considered the best in the world in terms of quality and consistency, making it the preferred choice for local spinners and manufacturers.

"With global buyers increasingly prioritising sustainable sourcing and natural fibres, cotton remains a vital raw material for Bangladesh's spinners and knitwear producers," Hatem added.

He viewed the USDA's import forecast as a strong endorsement of Bangladesh's capability to maintain and expand its leadership in the global apparel value chain.

The global cotton trade is also forecast to rise by 2.3 million bales to 44.8 million bales in MY26, indicating a broader uptick in demand across textile-producing economies.

China, which imported 15 million bales in MY24, is projected to import only 7 million bales in MY26. The country's shift away has left space for Bangladesh to rise to the top, which analysts say marks a notable structural shift in global cotton trade flows.

The USDA also anticipates stable cotton prices globally, aided by adequate supply, a weakening US dollar, and declining energy costs. These trends may ease cost pressures for Bangladeshi millers, who have grappled with high input costs over the past two years.

On March 17 this year, Foreign Affairs Adviser Md Touhid Hossain said Bangladesh intends to import more cotton from the US, creating mutual benefits for US suppliers and local businesses.

He added that such trade ties could offer Bangladesh protection amid former US President Donald Trump's tariff-centric policies.

Although the Trump administration has levied high tariffs on many countries, Bangladeshi goods have so far remained outside the purview of such punitive measures.

Hossain argued that sourcing more US cotton could further dissuade the administration from targeting Bangladesh, whose products face an average tariff of 15.62 percent in the US market.

He also stressed the need to boost domestic cotton production to meet at least 20 percent of the country's annual demand, amounting to about 9 million bales.

Currently, local production covers just 2 percent of that requirement.​
 

Apparel sector needs $6.6b investment to cut carbon emission by half: Report
Monira Munni

Published :
May 16, 2025 08:49
Updated :
May 16, 2025 08:49

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Bangladesh's textile and apparel industry needs an approximate investment worth US$6.6 billion to help reduce the level of carbon emissions by half by 2030 through renewable energy and energy efficiency measures, according to a global report.

Of the required amount, only $1.8 billion is currently available or anticipated while there has been a gap of $4.8 billion, said the report titled 'Landscape and Opportunities to Finance the Decarbonization of Bangladesh's Apparel Manufacturing Sector'.

As of 2023, Bangladesh was among the top five countries having the highest level of potential in reduction of greenhouse gas emissions in the apparel and textile industries.

Apparel Impact Institute (Aii) in collaboration with Development Financial International, Inc (DFI) published the report on May 08 outlining how the country can close that gap and realize its decarbonization potential through strategic finance tools.

Aii is a global non-profit organisation, dedicated to identifying, funding, scaling, and measuring the apparel and footwear industry's proven environmental impact solutions and works with over 50 brands and retailers including Target, PVH, Lululemon and H&M Group that are leading the sector's global decarbonization efforts.

Bangladesh's textile and apparel industry contributes more than 80 per cent of the country's foreign export earnings, said the report.

The sector has significant potential to contribute to the goal of a 50 per cent reduction in greenhouse gas (GHG) emission by 2030, taking the industry's scale-- key production stages, including raw material processing, weaving, knitting, dyeing, finishing, manufacturing and distribution and continued reliance on fossil fuels, into consideration.

Despite its economic significance, local textile and apparel industry faces considerable environmental challenges and the high consumption of energy, water, and chemicals across the supply chain has contributed to significant environmental degradation and GHG emissions, according to the report.

In Bangladesh, natural gas burning remains the country's primary source of energy and RMG sector alone accounts for 8.2 per cent of Bangladesh's total electricity consumption, it said, adding that the textile and garment sector represents 27.8 per cent of Bangladesh's primary energy consumption.

Besides, there is growing pressure from brands and emerging global and local regulations for the industry to adopt cleaner and sustainable practices, it said.

Explaining the possible credit lines, it said as of September 2024, some 12 credit lines and revolving fund schemes have been identified, with close to $1.6 billion in available funding and $175 million in upcoming funding from International Financial Institutions (IFIs) and the national government.

"This leaves a financing gap of US$4.8 billion," it said, adding IFIs are also partnering with the government and private sector to improve energy policies, build local technical capabilities, and support decarbonisation initiatives," said the report.

It, however, found financial constraints, limited technical expertise, insufficient energy policies and inadequate infrastructure as major challenges that manufacturers face in transitioning to sustainability.

A lack of technical experts such as energy auditors in Bangladesh drives up costs and prolongs inspection processes, with energy audits averaging $10,000 - approximately double the cost in neighbouring India.

Building local expertise can help reduce costs and generate quality local jobs, the report suggested.

It further said the renewable energy market is still in its early stages, with limited renewable energy service companies (RESCO) activity and no energy service companies (ESCO) operations in Bangladesh recommending "Growth capital is needed to scale renewable energy and energy efficiency solutions."

The report also recommended, among others, enhanced support from brands, active involvement of manufacturers to address barriers like higher level of debt and perceived risks by encouraging brands to offer stronger incentives and support through various financing and de-risking instruments.

Talking to the FE, Shams Mahmud, managing director of Shasha Denims Ltd, said the industry itself has, so far, invested to help cut emissions, taking the EU regulations into consideration.

"It is difficult to make funds available mostly for small and medium enterprises as they (SMEs) don't have enough capacity and lengthy documentation procedures," he said. He went on: "The rate of interest also remains high."

Mr. Mahmud, however, said the green transition fund is not industry-friendly.

The main issue is to measure as how much decarbonization is done, he said, adding that there is a lack of skilled manpower in government agencies concerned.

About the measures, he said, his factory has undertaken to decarbonise, while they are installing new energy-efficient technology that can help reduce usages of water and chemical.

Such technology using tri-generation systems of power generation to reduce carbon footprint, enhancing the efficiency level to 85 per cent from 60 per cent in two years back.​
 

Apparel exports to EU surge by 33pc
Moinul Haque 17 May, 2025, 23:02

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Bangladesh’s apparel exports to the European Union showed a strong upward trend in the first quarter (January-March) of 2025, with total earnings increasing by 33 per cent compared to the same period in 2024.

According to data from the Eurostat, the statistical office of the EU, From January to March 2025, EU apparel imports from Bangladesh totalled 5.68 billion euros, compared to 4.27 billion euros during the same period in 2024.

This increase of 1.41 billion euros in the quarter represents a notable 33 per cent growth in terms of value.

Knitwear exports drove much of this expansion, climbing nearly 36 per cent from around 2.39 billion euros to 3.25 billion euros. Woven apparel also performed strongly, with exports rising approximately 30 per cent from 1.87 billion euros to 2.43 billion euros.

Exporters attributed the recent surge in apparel exports to the EU to seasonal summer demand, early order placements by buyers and a recovering European market.

Although Bangladesh’s exports to the EU grew year-on-year in each of the three months, the rate of growth slowed gradually over the quarter.

Data showed that Bangladesh’s apparel exports to the EU in January 2025 posted the highest growth rate at 61 per cent, reaching 1.91 billion euros, followed by slower but healthy growth of 28 per cent in February with 1.66 billion euros and a further slowdown to 18 per cent growth in March with exports totaling 2.10 billion euros.

Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association former president Fazlul Hoque said that the significant increase in the EU’s overall apparel imports in the first quarter of 2025 indicated a clear revival of the market.

‘The good news is that buyers are placing orders again — and the even better news is that a significant share of those orders is coming to Bangladesh. It shows that we are holding our ground, even as competition intensifies,’ he said.

The EU market saw strong growth in apparel imports in the first quarter of 2025, with total import value rising 20.6 per cent from approximately 19.44 billion euros in January-March of 2024 to 23.45 billion euros in the same period in 2025.

Knit apparel imports increased by 23.6 per cent, rising from 9.53 billion euros to 11.78 billion euros, while woven apparel imports grew 18 per cent, from 9.90 billion euros to 11.67 billion euros.

Overall, EU apparel imports rose by more than 4.9 billion euros year-on-year.

In volume terms, the EU’s apparel imports also recorded a significant increase.

Total import volume reached approximately 11.51 million kilograms in the first quarter of 2025, up from 9.57 million kilograms in the same period of 2024, a 20.3 per cent rise.

In quantity, Bangladesh’s total apparel exports to the EU rose from 2.90 million kilograms in the first quarter of 2024 to 3.61 million kilograms in the first quarter of 2025, an increase of 24.6 per cent.

Knitwear volumes grew by 29.5 per cent, from 1.76 million kilograms to 2.28 million kilograms while woven apparel exports increased by 17.1 per cent, reaching 1.33 million kilograms.

Among major EU suppliers, Bangladesh recorded one of the highest growth rates in value terms, surpassing key competitors such as China, Vietnam, Turkey, and India.

While it fell just short of Cambodia’s exceptionally high growth rate, it remained slightly ahead of Pakistan’s.

Despite the positive export trends, Fazlul Hoque cautioned that supply-side risks were mounting, particularly due to energy shortages.

He said that plans to divert gas from power generation could create significant energy supply challenges for the industry, potentially threatening Bangladesh’s ability to sustain or grow its market share.

Eurostat data showed that China retained its position as the EU’s largest apparel supplier by value. The country’s exports rose from 4.92 billion euros in the first quarter of 2024 to 6.35 billion euros in the same period of 2025, marking a 29 per cent increase. Knitwear shipments to the EU grew by 32.7 per cent, while woven apparel rose by 25.5 per cent.

Turkey saw a slight decline in total apparel exports, which fell by 0.9 per cent from 2.28 billion euros to 2.26 billion euros. While knit exports rose marginally by 1.5 per cent, woven apparel declined by 4.1 per cent, possibly reflecting changing competitiveness or supply chain dynamics.

India achieved solid growth, with EU imports rising from 1.07 billion euros to 1.37 billion euros, a 27.8 per cent increase. Knitwear grew by 34 per cent and woven by 22 per cent, indicating a broader improvement in India’s access to the EU market.

Vietnam’s apparel exports to the EU expanded by 22 per cent to 1.08 billion euros, supported by a 19 per cent rise in knitwear and a 24 per cent increase in woven apparel.

Pakistan recorded a 32.8 per cent rise in total exports, which reached 1.03 billion euros. Knitwear exports increased by 30 per cent, while woven apparel grew by 36 per cent.

Cambodia reported the fastest growth among all listed suppliers, with EU apparel imports rising by 37.8 per cent to 1.11 billion euros. Knitwear exports grew by 35 per cent, and woven garments surged by 41 per cent.​
 

Fast fashion, fat margins: How retailers cash in on low-cost RMG

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Global fashion brands are reaping triple-digit profits on Bangladeshi garments, buying at $3 and selling for three to four times more. Yet, they continue to pressure factories to cut prices further.

A shirt manufactured in Bangladesh at a free-on-board (FoB) price of $5 often retails for as much as $28 in Europe or North America. Once shipping, warehousing, duties, and other operational costs are added, bringing the total to around $16, retailers may still earn a profit of about $12 per item.

Western retailers and brands often justify their pricing strategies by pointing to the high costs associated with global operations, including freight charges, currency hedging, warehousing, demurrage, markdowns, and advertising.

"There are overheads, of course, but let's not pretend they're not making money," said Fazle Shamim Ehsan, proprietor of Fatullah Apparels. "Especially in the mid to high-end market, many brands earn huge profits from goods made in Bangladesh."

Still, many Western buyers continue to pressure Bangladeshi factories to reduce the prices further.

A 2020 study by the European non-profit Fair Wear Foundation found that nearly 39 percent of garment manufacturers in the country had sold products at a loss.

The practice, exporters say, is mainly to preserve long-standing relationships with global retailers and to secure future contracts.

Meanwhile, data from the Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD), a Dhaka-based think tank, suggests that Bangladesh consistently receives lower prices than its Asian competitors for similar products.

In 2020, Bangladeshi cotton T-shirts exported to the European Union (EU) fetched €1,091.5 per 100 kilogrammes, a 1 percent decline from the previous year, while Vietnam's equivalent product saw a 3 percent price increase, rising to €2,157.9.

The contrast was even sharper in pullovers.

Bangladesh's average price fell 7 percent to €1,329.5, whereas Vietnamese pullovers held steady at €2,157.8.

For garments made from man-made fibres, Bangladeshi exports declined 6 percent to €1,319.4, while Vietnam's fell by just 3 percent to €1,906.2.

The United States market reflected similar patterns, as shown in the CPD data.

The average price for a dozen Bangladeshi-made cotton T-shirts dropped from $22.43 in 2019 to $17.99 in 2020, a 20 percent fall, while Vietnamese suppliers experienced a slightly smaller decline, with prices falling from $38.2 to $31.9.

Bangladeshi sweaters and pullovers also saw a 2 percent price drop to $39.31 per dozen, whereas Vietnamese equivalents remained largely unchanged, with prices hovering around $47.

For trousers, the gap was wider still. A dozen cotton-fibre trousers for women and girls exported from Bangladesh earned $64.17 in 2020, down 12 percent from the year before. Vietnam, by comparison, received $84.6 for the same product after a smaller price adjustment of just 6 percent.

SYSTEMIC UNDERVALUATION

A 2022 report by the International Trade Centre (ITC) underscored the pattern of systemic undervaluation of Bangladeshi garments.

Men's woven cotton trousers exported from Bangladesh earned an FoB price of $7.01 per piece, which was 9.2 percent below the global average of $7.72. Vietnam received $10.76 for the same item, while Sri Lanka and India fetched $8 and $8.41.

Similarly, men's cotton jeans made in Bangladesh were sold at $7.81 per piece, 7.2 percent below the global average of $8.41, while Vietnamese jeans sold for $11.55.

Even in niche categories like man-made fibre bras, Bangladesh was paid considerably less, with exporters earning $3.19 per unit compared to Vietnam's $6.06.

Only two Bangladeshi products -- women's cotton trousers and men's cotton T-shirts -- were sold at slightly above the global average.

Women's cotton trousers earned $6.43 apiece, exceeding the world average of $5.22 by 23.3 percent, while men's T-shirts fetched $1.47, roughly 23.1 percent higher than the global benchmark.

Still, these figures were dwarfed by the earnings of countries like Turkey and Peru, which received up to four times more for similar items.

According to the ITC, which has a joint mandate with the World Trade Organization and the United Nations, these pricing gaps represent an entrenched imbalance in the global supply chain.

Industry insiders say Bangladesh's quality has improved, but its bargaining power remains weak.

RETAILERS CITE HIGH OPERATIONAL COSTS

Ehsan, owner of Fatullah Apparels, said jackets and outerwear produced in Bangladesh, often sold to retailers at FoB prices ranging from $20 to $25, regularly appear in stores for $100 to $110.

He added that some of the world's richest individuals have built their fortunes in fashion retail, with Bangladesh as a key production hub.

The profit chain often stretches beyond the retailers themselves.

Md Fazlul Hoque, managing director of Plummy Fashions Ltd, pointed out that a significant share of Bangladesh's garment exports is managed by intermediaries or third-party importers, who also take a cut before the goods reach retail shelves.

"Sometimes we sell a T-shirt at $3.50, and it ends up in a branded store for $39," Hoque said. "Of course, it doesn't stay at that price forever -- discounting comes in later, but the markup is still substantial."

He added that while pricing can vary across seasons and product categories, the general rule of thumb remains: most garments are sold at three to four times their FoB value.

However, a European retailer, on condition of anonymity, disputed the claims of excessive markups. "Those suggesting a substantial markup on Bangladeshi garment items are gravely mistaken," he said.

"In the garment supply chain, a European retailer must rent large warehouses to store goods, which is quite costly," he said, adding that transportation expenses also factor in.

"Renting retail space is another major expense, and ultimately, retailers and brands can sell, at best, 70 percent of the goods from a single consignment," he said. "Once the season ends, unsold items can no longer be offered to customers."

The retailer said that European companies pay higher wages than their Asian counterparts, which also affects profit margins. "Ultimately, European retailers earn less than 10 percent profit annually. The claims of high markups are exaggerated."

CALL FOR FAIR PRICING

Apparel industry advocates and multilateral organisations are increasingly urging retailers to adopt more equitable pricing models.

The ITC noted in its report that while apparel manufacturing has grown more complex, involving design, logistics, and branding, the actual cut-and-sew operations, which remain concentrated in countries like Bangladesh, continue to be the least rewarded.

Khondaker Golam Moazzem, research director at CPD, said that China and Vietnam are getting higher prices for their garments by utilising diverse fabrics and innovative product designs, despite sharing the same HS codes as Bangladesh.

In contrast, Bangladesh's garment exports are heavily reliant on just five or six products, accounting for 70 percent of its total exports. This concentration creates unhealthy competition, tempting local exporters to undercut prices, said Moazzem.

He also pointed out that the industry's heavy dependence on cotton and limited use of man-made fibres are also obstructing better prices.

"Bringing in more foreign investment could be a viable solution, as foreign investors usually have access to upmarket buyers and advanced technologies," said the CPD research director.​
 

RMG export to EU rises 29% in Jan-Mar
Bangladesh shipped $5.98 billion worth of apparels to the EU in the first three months of 2025

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Bangladesh's apparel exports to the European Union surged by 29 percent in the first three months of 2025.

The South Asian country shipped garments worth $5.98 billion to the EU in the January–March period of 2025, up from $4.63 billion in the same period of 2024.

Moreover, garment export volume to the destination also rose by a strong 24.64 percent, along with a 3.55 percent increase in unit price, according to data from Eurostat, the statistical office of the European Union.

The rise in export value, volume, and unit price indicates balanced growth in amount, quantity, and price in the EU market, the data said.

In the January–March period of 2025, the EU saw a significant surge in apparel imports, with growth of 16.84 percent, totalling $24.65 billion.

This increase was accompanied by a notable 20.25 percent spike in volume and a 2.84 percent decrease in average unit prices.

China, India, Pakistan, and Cambodia also experienced substantial growth in the same period.

China's apparel exports to the EU reached $6.67 billion in January–March 2025, up from $5.34 billion in the same period of the previous year.

However, Turkey faced a 4.14 percent decrease in apparel exports to the EU, totalling $2.37 billion in January–March 2025, while Vietnam recorded 18.09 percent growth, reaching $1.14 billion in exports.

India, Pakistan, and Cambodia secured $1.44 billion, $1.08 billion, and $1.16 billion respectively from the EU clothing market during January–March 2025.​
 

Bangladesh to stay as top cotton importer in 2025-26
USDA says
Saddam Hossain 20 May, 2025, 23:30

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A file photo shows a worker overseeing a cotton processing machine at a factory in Habiganj. | New Age photo

Bangladesh, the second largest exporter of readymade garment items, is poised to remain the world’s largest raw cotton importer in the marketing year 2025-26, said the US Department of Agriculture.

According to the data titled ‘Cotton: World Markets and Trade’ issued by the Foreign Agricultural Service under USDA, Bangladesh is projected to import 8.5 million bales of cotton in MY26, which starts in August.

USDA data show that in MY24, Bangladesh imported about 7.5 million bales of cotton from its global sources, which may increase to 8.2 million bales at the end of the current MY25.

Vietnam, one of the closest competitors of Bangladesh in the RMG export, is projected to import 8 million bales of cotton in MY26, where China may import 7 million bales, which imported 15 million bales in MY24.

However, Bangladesh remained top cotton importers, with 7 million bales import in MY23, and 8.45 million bales in MY22.

Meanwhile, on March 31, the USDA, in its report titled ‘Cotton and Products Annual,’ stated that Bangladesh’s cotton imports would witness a slight increase in MY26 thanks to increasing demand for RMG items.

According to the Export Promotion Bureau data, in the July-April period of the current FY25, Bangladesh’s RMG exports witnessed a positive growth of 10.86 per cent year-on-year to $30.25 billion.

In MY24, West African cotton held the largest market share in Bangladesh (37 per cent), while other major exporters included Brazil (17 per cent), India (23 per cent), and the United States (9 per cent).

US cotton growers and exporters tried to expand their exports to Bangladesh for years.

It is to be noted that in early April, the US administration announced hefty duties on multiple countries as part of sweeping global tariffs, and Bangladesh was also slapped with a 37 per cent reciprocal tariff. Currently, most Bangladeshi goods in the US face a 15 per cent tariff.

However, after a few days, the US administration paused the declared tariff for a 90-day period.

A number of exporters and experts suggested raising the import of US cotton to reduce the trade gap between Bangladesh and the US.

On 2023, Bangladesh lifted the double fumigation requirement for US cotton, meant US cotton could enter Bangladesh without fumigation at the port of entry, which saved importers millions of dollars and five days of waiting time.

Mohammad Hatem, president of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), said Bangladesh could import more cotton from the US as a part of a broader strategy to reduce the trade gap between the two countries.

He said that the USDA’s import forecast strongly ratifies Bangladesh’s capability to maintain and expand its leadership in the global RMG value chain.

He also said that importing a large amount of cotton from the US may reinforce Bangladesh’s position for bargaining for duty-free access for its RMG items to the US.

He also said that the government’s position in this regard is appreciable.

He added that cotton will always remain vital as a crucial raw material for Bangladesh’s spinners and knitwear producers as a primary source of natural and sustainable fibre.

According to the USDA, Bangladeshi producers could produce about 153,000 bales of cotton on 45,000 hectares of land, which is less than 2 per cent of its total consumption.​
 

Textile mills gasp from severe disruption in gas supply
Staff Correspondent 25 May, 2025, 22:59

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BTMA president addresses the press conference organised by the Bangladesh Textile Mill Association in the capital on Sunday. | Press release

Textile and garment industry owners said that due to the inadequate supply of gas, the normal manufacturing activities is being hampered in the industry.

Moreover, a number of textile mills are on the verge of shutting down as they are unable to operate even at minimum capacity.

They were speaking at a press conference organised by the Bangladesh Textile Mill Association in the capital on Sunday.

Representatives from Federation of Bangladesh Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association, Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association, Bangladesh Terry Towel and Linen Manufacturers and Exporters Association, Leathergoods and Footwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association of Bangladesh, and Bangladesh Chamber of Industries were also present at the event.

BTMA president Showkat Aziz Russell said that the sector was going through a gas supply shortage for the past few months, and it became severe in the last few weeks.

He also said that the government was reluctant to resolve the crises and the sector was passing through a hard time.

‘The government seems like ostrich, everyone is saying about their problems but they hide their head in the sands,’ he added.

He also said that the factories are being strangled to death through anti-industry actions and the working capital has shrunk drastically.

‘It seems that we cannot pay wages and festival allowances properly before Eid and we won’t be able to reopen the factories after Eid,’ he added.

He also said that in 1971, intellectuals were systematically targeted and killed. In 2025, the industry and the industrialists are being targeted destroyed, he added.

He also said that the failure to save the industry could lead the country towards famine.

He sought immediate governmental measures to ensure smooth and uninterrupted gas supply to the textile industries of the country.

‘The government has failed to provide adequate gas supply to the industries despite hike in the prices several time and repeated commitments,’ he added.

But, the government is now setting a deadline for the factories to pay wages, otherwise, the owners will be arrested, and their houses and cars will be sold, he lamented.

‘Government should introduce a mid-term strategy and roadmap to resolve the gas and energy issues,’ he added.

He also said that there was about 20 per cent system loss in Titas Gas, though the global standard is 1 per cent to 2 per cent.

‘If the government take immediate measures to stop system loss, it would be lowered to 7 per cent to 8 per cent,’ he added.

BCI president Anwar Ul Alam Chowdhury said that the government committed to provide required mmcf of gas, but they couldn’t supply.

The government has hiked gas price, interest rates for which factories run only 60 per cent of their capacity.

Jakir Hossain Noyon, member of the assistant committee of the FBCCI, said that government must focus on exploring new gas field to meet the demands.

He also urged the government to start Small Modular Reactor technology for the industry.

BTMA director Rajeev Haidar also urged to drill new gas field.

BTMA vice-president Saleudh Zaman Khan said that if the government did not take proper action, Bangladesh would not see the birth of new entrepreneurs.

‘If the government couldn’t solve the problems by June, a number of factories will shut after the Eid,’ he added.

Business leaders from many other trade bodies also spoke at the event.​
 

High-level consultation held to align on single monitoring and compliance system for RMG sector

FE Online Report
Published :
May 27, 2025 23:21
Updated :
May 27, 2025 23:55

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A high-level consultation meeting towards alignment for a Single Monitoring and Compliance System (SMCS) was held on Tuesday at the BGMEA Complex in Uttara.

The event was jointly organized by the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA).

The meeting brought together key stakeholders, including representatives from the International Labour Organization (ILO), the Department of Inspection for Factories and Establishments (DIFE), and major global brands such as M&S, GAP, Inditex, and Li & Fung, alongside members of BGMEA and BKMEA.

Discussions centered around the persistent challenge of overlapping audits and compliance requirements in the RMG and textile sector.

The participants highlighted how this leads to audit fatigue, duplication of efforts, and inefficient use of resources.

This consultation focused on discussing ways to establish a common platform to streamline monitoring and compliance practices for enhanced sector-wide efficiency and accountability.

The session was chaired by Md. Anwar Hossain, Administrator, BGMEA. ANM Saifuddin, Supporting Committee Member, BGMEA, moderated the discussion, while Fazlee Ehsan Shamim, Executive President, BKMEA, also spoke at the meeting.

In his remarks, Tuomo Poutiainen, Country Director of ILO Bangladesh, stressed the importance of developing a credible and inclusive national system. He highlighted the need for trust-building and institutional collaboration to ensure the system’s success and sustainability.

BGMEA Administrator Md. Anwar Hossain underscored the need to address fragmentation in audits to minimize fatigue and highlighted the importance of a common compliance platform with a credible and internationally accepted unified code of conduct for social and technical audits.

He emphasized that this would benefit all stakeholders — buyers, manufacturers, and workers alike.

Anwar Hossain urged the ILO to take the lead in facilitating its development.

All brand representatives and stakeholders present expressed support for the initiative.

BGMEA and BKMEA will jointly develop a concept paper outlining the scope, rationale, and framework of a unified monitoring and compliance system, according to meeting sources.

Stakeholder consultations will be initiated to identify common compliance indicators across trade bodies, employers, trade unions, brands, and auditing experts.

The initiative aims to lay the groundwork for a trusted and transparent national compliance system aligned with global expectations and the Bangladeshi context.​
 

Over half of registered RMG factories pay festival allowance ahead of deadline: BGMEA

FE Online Report
Published :
May 28, 2025 19:47
Updated :
May 28, 2025 22:19

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Over 53 per cent, or 1,126 garment factories registered with the apparel apex body — Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association— paid festival allowances as of Wednesday, three days before the set deadline, according to data from the BGMEA.

The trade body, in a circular issued on May 26 citing the government’s decision, asked all its members to pay the festival allowance by May 31 and the monthly wages for May by June 3.

“But, if necessary, May wages could be paid before the Eid holiday starts, considering production and shipment, after discussions with respective workers,” read the notification.

It further added that, in such cases, factory management must ensure there is no labour unrest.

According to the BGMEA, some 2,092 factories listed with the trade body are currently in operation.

Some 46.18 per cent, or 966 factories, had not paid the festival allowance as of Wednesday, data showed.

It also showed that four units in the Gazipur, Savar, and Ashulia industrial zones out of the 2,092 factories suspended operations on Wednesday for various reasons.

Two factories located in Gazipur — Hong Kong Fashion Ltd and Hagh Knitwear Ltd — had not paid wages for the month of March as of Wednesday, while about two dozen factories had not paid wages for the month of April.​
 

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