[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh

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[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh
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Boosting efficiency, image of RMG sector
Helal Uddin Ahmed
Published :
Oct 08, 2024 00:27
Updated :
Oct 08, 2024 00:27

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The rapid expansion of readymade garments industry (RMGI) over the past four decades has made significant contribution to the socio-economic uplift of Bangladesh. It is also a matter of satisfaction that a majority of workers employed in this sector are female. At present, about 75 per scent RMG factories are located in the Dhaka region, viz. Dhaka city, Savar, Ashulia, Gazipur and Narayanganj. But the recent turmoil in these factories have once again proved the need for maintaining a stable working environment through coordinated efforts and team-work of all stakeholders including the workers and owners.

Initiatives should be taken now to enhance the competitive edge and efficiency of the RMG sector for its sustainable growth. Loopholes in the regulatory framework should be addressed to reduce the time-lag in sending or receiving consignments. The time-frame for customs clearance should be reduced drastically and the whole exercise should be digitalised by shedding unnecessary dependence on manual procedures.

With the exception of a few units, most garments manufacturers in the country lack research and development (R&D) set-up. But the R&D teams in the factories of competitor countries are usually stronger. The local factories normally take 3 to 4 months for product development (from design to sample preparation). But countries like China spend only 15 to 30 days for the purpose. Lack of efficiency and weak productivity have become critical factors, as a result of which average production cost unnecessarily goes up, thereby offsetting the advantage of lower labour cost in Bangladesh.

Repairing and developing the road infrastructure at places like Ashulia and Gazipur have also become urgent now, as better road communication would decrease the time wasted during transportation of RMG consignments. Alongside adequate port facilities, the overall logistic framework including reliable supply of utilities like electricity should be ensured, so that all related activities including import of inputs and export of RMG products can be performed seamlessly without unnecessary delays.

In the backdrop of a rapidly changing market scenario across the globe, the entrepreneurs need to enhance their investments in automation and digitalisation, as production efficiency can be improved through adoption of modern technology and digital systems. Besides, value-addition can be enhanced through curtailing dependence on manual labour. For tapping the growth potentials, due importance should also be attached to the skill development of workers, which in turn would lead to enhanced productivity. These skills include communication cum technological knowhow and expertise. Moreover, ensuring a safe work-environment accompanied by fair wages and other benefits for workers is very important for fruitful team effort. A stable and motivated workforce can be maintained if workers' rights are upheld and regular dialogues are held between the factory management and trade union members.

The recent proliferation of online trading has added an element of unpredictability in RMG business. Many buyers prefer to do business online now instead of undertaking physical visits. Consequently, the nature of business is fast changing and smaller establishments have to compete with bigger ones on equal footing via the worldwide web for attracting buyers. The shape and form of retail marketing are also undergoing significant changes, and appropriate adjustments are needed to remain competitive. However, the big buyers usually maintain consistency in their sourcing, and usually do not make sudden or erratic moves.

The RMG products also need diversification in the light of a changing global scenario. A gradual shift towards sportswear, specialised apparels and dresses can aid in this move to high-value garments from that of low-value traditional ones. But items like shirts, trousers, jackets, t-shirts and sweaters still dominate the export basket of Bangladeshi RMG. Greater product diversification has therefore become urgent for improving the situation.

The power of innovation should also be applied in the use of fabrics and other ingredients. Utilising environment-friendly and sustainable fabrics will not only meet global expectations, but will also help Bangladesh in playing a leading role in sustainable fashion marketing across the globe. For this, good governance and policy supports have to be ensured. A stable political climate as well as neutral cum non-partisan business environment are essential for the growth of local RMG industry. Specifically, reforms should be undertaken in the banking, customs, and taxation sectors in order to ensure transparency, efficiency, and accountability. The industry should comply with the global standards for remaining competitive globally. Maintaining the highest quality through compliance with the standards of production and processes, and upholding labour rights and environmental sustainability are crucial for future growth of the industry.

Overall, the 'Bangladesh' brand should be projected in the right manner as a reliable supplier in the global market. The country's achievements in the area of sustainability should also be highlighted. For example, the leading role played by Bangladeshi RMG factories in green industrialisation can be publicised. This would also enhance Bangladesh's reputation as an ethical source. Besides, measures should be taken for ensuring fair prices from international buyers, which will also help in providing higher wages and improved work-environment for workers. This, in turn, may attract more skilled workers to the RMG industry.

The social and ethical considerations should be given top priority by the factory owners and the government. The image of Bangladesh's RMG industry will be automatically bolstered if corruption is curtailed and transparency in business processes cum official procedures are ensured. Regular dialogues between the employers and workers and strict adherence to ethical labour standards and fair management practices will help the industry in meeting social obligations and boosting its reputation worldwide.

For expanding the RMG exports to new and emerging markets, diplomatic initiatives may be undertaken by the government alongside BGMEA and BKMEA. Boosting exports to the potentially high-growth non-traditional markets will help reduce dependence on the traditional export markets like the EU and USA, and assist in overcoming associated risks. A competitive edge in the global market should be maintained through strengthening supply chain management - especially by reducing lead time and enhancing efficiency. This should include adoption of best practices and application of modern technology for optimal production.​
 

Some RMG work orders shifted to other countries for unrest
Square Group CEO Tapan Chowdhury says in conversation with ERF members

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Although textile and garments is the biggest and most successful sector in terms of contribution to the economy, employment generation and women empowerment, businesspeople in the industry are facing some challenges due to labour unrest, said Tapan Chowdhury, chief executive officer of Square Group. Photo: Rajib Raihan

Some garment work orders have shifted to competitor countries as a result of the recent spell of labour unrest in major apparel manufacturing belts across Bangladesh.

Renowned entrepreneur and garment exporter Tapan Chowdhury made the remark during a conversation with members of the Economic Reporters' Forum (ERF) at its office in Dhaka yesterday.

Chowdhury, chief executive officer of Square Group, said his company, which produces garment items for leading clothing brands, had seen a portion of work orders shift to other countries, especially Sri Lanka, as buyers want to avoid uncertainty and ensure smooth and timely supply of goods.

However, it is expected that these brands will return with a handful of work orders for his company and Bangladesh as a whole if stability and normalcy are restored.

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Chowdhury, also managing director of Square Pharmaceuticals, said the law-and-order situation in major garment-producing areas is better now than it was during the initial days after the interim government was formed.

Replying to queries, he said Bangladesh's graduation from the group of Least Developed Countries (LDCs) should be postponed as the sudden erosion of the preferential trade benefits may present challenges for businesses.

He added that investors had delayed plans to set up industries in the Active Pharmaceutical Ingredients (API) Industrial Park in Gazaria of Munshiganj as gas connections were yet to be provided.

He further said that Square Group plans to list more companies under the conglomerate on the stock markets if better opportunities arrive in the future, although he conceded they are now facing difficulties in managing their two listed companies.

"We are feeling very comfortable after a big change," he said regarding the political changeover and the business environment in the country.

"We are hopeful as the interim government's tenure is short and they want to bring a positive change. The advisers to the interim government are also saying that such an opportunity will not come again."

During a recent visit to the US to attend the United Nations General Assembly, chief adviser Prof Muhammad Yunus asked major clothing brands to source more garment items from Bangladesh, Chowdhury said.

The Square Group CEO also voiced his support for the action being taken by the interim government against corrupt businessmen.

He recalled how he was involved in the family business with his father, where he learned not just to manage day-to-day operations, but also the importance of values and ethics in running businesses.

Chowdhury also mentioned a few instances of how some leading pharmaceutical companies failed to survive due to their tendency to dodge taxes.

He said it was very unfortunate that the reforms adopted by the previous caretaker government were not continued by the immediate past government.

"I want to believe change will come. I hope the interim government will be successful. The political leaders should also know that power does not exist forever."

Although the textile and garment sectors are the biggest and most successful sectors in terms of contribution to the economy, employment generation and women empowerment, they have been facing some challenges due to labour unrest.

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However, Chowdhury said the employees of Square are considered family members and this is the main strength of the company's values.

The workers, especially female workers, also have a huge contribution to the sector's success, he said.

"They spend their primes working in the garment sector and then contribute to their families, but it does not affect their productivity," he said, adding that female garment workers in Bangladesh are extremely disciplined.

"We want stability in the country. The decision of who will run the country will come through a vote," he added.

Large industries are investing in the heavy industrial sector and if the opportunity presents itself, Square Group also has plans to invest in large and heavy industries.

Since the county does not have a petrochemical industry, there is a lack of APIs.

Chowdhury added that the price of medicine is fixed through stringent consultation among regulators. As the drug administration monitors the process, companies cannot fix prices at will.

However, he said prices of oncology medicines are higher as most are imported.​
 

Bangladesh lags behind competitors in RMG export to the US
Staff Correspondent
Dhaka
Published: 13 Oct 2024, 19: 37

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Workers at a readymade garment factory File Photo

Instead of expanding the volume of readymade garment exports to the US, Bangladesh is falling behind its competitors in this regard. Though the export of RMG products of all top five exporters to the US in the first eight months of the year decreased, the decrease for Bangladesh is larger.

This was revealed in the latest report of the Office of Textile and Apparel (OTEXA) of the US Department of Commerce.

It said the US traders imported apparel products worth USD 51.3 billion from various countries around the world in the first eight months this year. The amount is 4.11 per cent less than the corresponding time last year.

According to the OTEXA, Bangladeshi entrepreneurs exported RMG products worth $4.71 in the US markets in that time period which is 9.16 per cent less than the time last year. The amount of export was $7.29 billion between January and August last year.

Bangladesh is the third largest exporter with 9 per cent market share while the share of China is 21.18 per cent, the largest exporter of RMG products to the US. The country exported products worth $10.69 billion which is 2.98 per cent less than the time last year

Vietnam is the second largest exporter of RMG products to the US. The country is also gaining momentum fast in recuperating from the drop in exports. It exported products worth $9.56 billion from January to August this year. The amount was $9.66 in the previous year.

India and Indonesia are the fourth and fifth largest exporters of RMG products to the US. The exports of India to the country dropped by 1.47 per cent while the drop was 7.16 per cent from Indonesia.

Though the production and export of RMG products for three months was hampered due to the quota reform movement, student-people uprising, floods and labour unrest, the entrepreneurs remain hopeful of the US market due to the formation of the interim government with Nobel Laureate economist Dr. Muhammad Yunus at the helm.

President of the apex body of knitwear manufacturers, Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), Fazle Shamim Ehsan, told Prothom Alo, “The buying of essential goods not made in the US declined due to inflation. The foreign buyers are a bit worried over the ongoing unrest in the markets. But we will turn around if we can ensure some kind of good governance."

Responding to another question, Fazle Shamim Ehsan said, “We are hopeful about the US market.”

Given the positive global identity of the chief adviser of the interim government, Dr. Muhammad Yunus, he pointed out, “If we could take avail some tariff facilities from the US, our export volume will rise.”​
 

Garment export to US falls 9.16% in Jan-Aug
Data released from the Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA) showed the fall

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Representational image. File photo

Garment export to the USA fell by 9.16 percent year-on-year to $4.70 billion in the January-August period of the current year because of a fall in demand for apparels in American markets, according to data from the Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA).

The data on apparel and textile import from different countries has recently been released by the OTEXA, which undertakes industry analysis, contributes to US trade policy development, participates in trade negotiations and trade promotion and addresses trade barriers.

In combined, the textile and garment shipment from Bangladesh to the USA also fell by 8.98 percent year-on-year to $4.84 billion in the January-August period this year, the OTEXA data also said.​
 

37pc audits in RMG factories identify critical violations in working hours and wages
QIMA REPORT
Monira Munni
Published :
Oct 18, 2024 09:12
Updated :
Oct 18, 2024 09:12

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About 37 per cent of audits conducted in Bangladeshi readymade garment factories during the period of January to September 2024 revealed critical violations related to working hours and wages.

More than half of all critical non-compliances in Bangladeshi factories during this period were related to working hours and wages, compared to about one-third globally, according to a recent report.

"From January to September 2024, critical violations related to working hours and wages were found in 37 per cent of audited factories in Bangladesh, more than double the rate of 2023," according to QIMA report.

QIMA is currently operating in more than 100 countries offering supplier audit, laboratory testing and product-inspection services in Asia, Africa, Australia, Europe and North America and South America.

According to the report, the global incidence of such critical violations identified during factory audits was 16 per cent while the rate was 20 per cent and 11 per cent in China and Vietnam respectively.

The rate was 9.0 per cent and 17 per cent in Bangladesh in 2022 and 2023, according to QIMA report.

Citing its previous reports, QIMA said compliance with working hours and wages has long been a pressing issue in global supply chains and the latest audit findings echo trade union concerns, suggesting that worker compensation issues in Bangladesh are 'endemic and pervasive'.

More than a decade after the Rana Plaza tragedy, Bangladesh is no longer synonymous with deadly working conditions, it said, adding a year-long surge in protests by garment workers has highlighted ongoing issues with working hours, pay, and freedom of association in the Bangladeshi RMG sector.

The report, however, said despite these challenges, a recent agreement reached between the industry players and worker representatives in late September offers a glimmer of hope for improvement in Bangladesh's garment industry.

Bangladesh's textile and apparel sector has struggled throughout 2024, it said, adding with dozens of factories shutting down due to labour unrest, global brands and retailers have had to turn elsewhere to stock up for the holiday season.

QIMA data shows that demand for textile and apparel inspections in Bangladesh in Q3 of '24 only grew by 3.0 per cent YoY, at the same time as demand for the same services in China, India, Indonesia and Vietnam has spiked.

The inspections demand by global buyer in the third quarter of 2024 increased by 25 per cent in China, 49 per cent in Vietnam, 30 per cent in Indonesia while 65 per cent in India respectively, according to QIMA.

When asked for comments, Nazma Akter, president of the Sammilito Garment Sramik Federation, partly disagreed with the findings, saying that the report did not provide clear details about the violations and also failed to mention the number of factories involved.

She, however, said that there are issues related to timely monthly wage payments, which she believes are not much high. The latest wage structure has not been fully implemented in all factories, leading to wage issues across different grades, she added.

She also noted that the latest labour unrest in major industrial belts was the outburst of long political suppressions, including absence of freedom of expression.

She called on the stakeholders, including global buyers, to support the industry by continuing to source from Bangladesh to help sustain the country's economy and employment.​
 

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