General General Mountaineering Thread

[Ghazi52]

Sadpara village. Photo: Saqlain Muhammad

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So far, Murtaza’s cousin, Sajid, has respected his mother’s wishes to avoid climbing high mountains in winter. But he has been busy nonetheless, climbing Gasherbrum I and II, Manaslu, Broad Peak, Annapurna, Everest, and Nanga Parbat a second time, all without supplemental oxygen. In his case, forgoing oxygen is by choice rather than necessity. As the son of Pakistan’s most famous alpinist, he wants to climb in good style.

Sajid dreams of qualifying as an internationally certified guide, a goal that demands extensive and costly training both in Nepal and overseas. However, because he is financially responsible for his entire family, he has to prioritize working in the mountains rather than chasing his personal aspirations.

While the recent development of the Sadpara Mountaineering and Climbing Institute may not directly impact Sajid, it has the potential to alter the trajectory of younger climbers like him.

The brainchild of Mohammad Ghulam, it was unveiled on World Mountain Day in December 2023. Funded in part by the Pakistan army, the institute aims to teach climbing skills to youth from Sadpara and nearby Baltistan, offering hope for local climbers at no cost to them.

The first eight-week session, taught by experienced Sadpara climbers and language instructors from the University of Baltistan, started on February 4, 2024. By equipping young climbers with necessary expertise and fostering confidence to make informed decisions in challenging high-mountain terrain, they could edge closer to achieving what Nepali climbers have done. They have an unprecedented platform on which to build their future, thanks to Nisar, Ali Raza, Mohammad Hussein, Ali Sadpara and so many others. Now it’s up to them.

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Bernadette McDonald is an award-winning author based in Banff, Canada. Her latest book, Alpine Rising, chronicles the lives of Sherpa and Balti climbers in the Greater Ranges.