[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh

[Saif]

Lotus Silk: Weaving possibilities in a fine fabric

A group of skilled artisans in Bangladesh have now created a special scarf made from yarn derived from lotus stems, known as Lotus Silk.

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Lotus Silk: Weaving possibilities in a fine fabric
Sheikh Saifur Rahman
Published: 08 Mar 2025, 11: 32

Extracting fiber from lotus stems

The world renowned gossamer-fine Dhaka Muslin spun from Phuti Karpas cotton disappeared from the scene. The intricate craftsmanship was lost to the world.

A few years ago, Dhaka Muslin saw a revival. A group of skilled artisans in Bangladesh achieved what was once thought impossible. They did not stop there. They have now created a special scarf made from yarn derived from lotus stems, known as Lotus Silk.

Unique properties of lotus silk

The colour of lotus silk yarn is a light milky yellow. This yarn is derived from a sticky resin found in lotus stems. The silk made from this yarn is called Lotus Silk, one of the most expensive fabrics in the world. The price of one kilogram of lotus silk yarn ranges from $2,000 to $3,500 (about Tk 427,000), and the price of fabric per yard varies between $25 and $1,000.

Countries such as Myanmar, Vietnam, and Cambodia have a long history of producing and using lotus silk. However, in Bangladesh, the use of lotus silk is a recent development.

A six-yard scarf was recently woven using the Jamdani weaving technique on a pit loom. This scarf has been presented to UNESCO and is currently displayed at the Bangladesh National Commission for UNESCO in Segunbagicha, Dhaka. Anyone interested can visit and see the scarf.

Experts and researchers believe that the successful production of lotus silk in Bangladesh has opened new doors for the textile industry. Since Bangladesh has numerous lotus-filled wetlands that remain flooded year-round, lotus stems can be collected at any time.

Artisan Achhia Begum holding her hand-woven lotus silk fabric

Prime prospects for Bangladesh

Padma (lotus) researcher and Chairman of Bengal Plants Research & Development (BPRD), Shikdar Abul Kashem Shamsuddin, expressed his optimism, saying, "Since labour costs are lower in Bangladesh, the cost of yarn spinning and fabric production will be reduced. This will make it easier for us to compete in the international market."

An eco-friendly yarn

Lotus stems contain numerous small pores that store a sticky substance. When exposed to air, this resin solidifies and is skillfully spun into yarn. This yarn dries quickly in the air without needing sunlight.

The stems of the pink lotus (Nelumbo nucifera) are ideal for producing lotus silk yarn, although other lotus varieties can also be used. Compared to cotton or mulberry silk, lotus silk is stronger, more durable, and 100% water-resistant. Though it lacks high elasticity, it does not wrinkle. This yarn is naturally lustrous, soft, and breathable, making it highly receptive to dyes that enhance its beauty.

Since lotus silk is made from natural materials, its production does not harm insects, unlike other silk industries. It requires no water or fossil fuel usage, making it a zero-carbon-emission process.

Various uses of the lotus

The pink lotus is considered sacred in Hinduism and Buddhism. One of its remarkable properties is its ability to purify water naturally. Lotus flowers are also renowned for their medicinal properties, and the pollen (stamens) of the lotus is used to make expensive herbal tea.

Lotus stems and young leaves can be cooked and eaten, while the root is an excellent source of carbohydrates. Due to its medicinal value, lotus is now commercially cultivated in various countries. White lotus petals are used to make perfumes. Countries such as China, India, Japan, Korea, Vietnam, Myanmar, Thailand, and Cambodia have diverse applications for lotus.

Commercial potential in Bangladesh

Bangladesh has 35–40 large lotus-filled wetlands, most of which are government-owned. These wetlands remain waterlogged year-round, allowing for a continuous supply of lotus stems.

When lotus stems are cut, new ones grow underwater, with a growth rate of 6–8 inches per day. This allows for at least five harvests per month. According to researcher Shikdar Abul Kashem Shamsuddin, the entire process, from stem collection to fabric production, takes about a month.

By breaking a lotus stem every inch, a sticky resin is released, which is then spun into yarn. If more stems are used, the yarn becomes thicker; if fewer stems are used, the yarn remains finer. This characteristic is similar to Phuti Karpas cotton, making it easy for Bangladeshi women to spin fine-quality yarn.

Women from Ronkoil village in Kanaipur, Faridpur, have proven this by successfully spinning excellent yarn after just three days of training. Within six months, they were able to produce ultra-fine yarn.

In Bangladesh, the best time for yarn production is from August to December, when lotus flowers are abundant. Since this silk production is directly related to agriculture, it can create a new source of income for rural women. If this project is implemented commercially, many skilled yarn spinners will emerge across different districts, making them financially independent.

Lotus silk threads in various colours

In Cambodia and Vietnam, approximately 30,000 lotus stems are needed to produce one kilogram of yarn. However, in Bangladesh, the same amount of yarn can be produced with just 15,000 lotus stems, according to Md. Ayub Ali, head of planning and implementation at the Bangladesh Handloom Board.

Key People behind the project

The Bengal Plants Research & Development (BPRD) initiated a project titled “Diversity, Usability, and Conservation of Lotus” to develop the lotus silk scarf.

Key contributors to the project include: Dr. Rakhahari Sarkar, Supernumerary professor at Dhaka University was involved in the project as an advisor. Md. Manjurul Islam, Operations Manager at the Handloom Board, assisted in yarn spinning and dyeing. He was also assisted by Md. Mohaiminul Islam, who also worked in the Muslin Project.
The lotus silk fabric was woven by master weaver Achhia Begum from Sonargaon.

Md. Tajuddin, Senior Program Officer of the Bangladesh National Commission for UNESCO, provided valuable guidance and support to implement the lotus research and of lotus silk weaving.

The research project was funded and supervised by the Bangladesh National Commission for UNESCO.

Need for proper planning

Based on the experience of the pilot project, Md. Ayub Ali believes that if Bangladesh starts commercial production, it will require fewer lotus stems than other countries to produce yarn, allowing for the production of finer-quality silk.

Additionally, jacquard and semi-automatic looms can be used to scale up fabric production.

According to analysts and researchers, lotus silk could be Bangladesh's trump card in the global luxury fashion market. With proper planning and execution, Bangladesh has the potential to carve out a unique position in the global textile industry with lotus silk.​

 

[Saif]

Sammilito Parishad demands adequate gas, electricity

Garment manufacturers and exporters demanded adequate supply of gas and electricity to production units and a reduction in bank interest rates to enhance production and exports, a leader of one of the panels that contest the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA)...

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Sammilito Parishad demands adequate gas, electricity

Garment manufacturers and exporters demanded adequate supply of gas and electricity to production units and a reduction in bank interest rates to enhance production and exports, a leader of one of the panels that contest the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) polls said yesterday.

Md Abul Kalam, the leader of Sammilito Parishad, was addressing garment exporters at an iftar event organised by the panel at the Army Golf Club in Dhaka.

It is possible to increase annual garment exports to $60 billion from the current $42 billion in the next five years if adequate gas and electricity can be supplied to industrial textile and garment units, he said.

He also made a commitment to achieve this target if Sammilito Parishad wins the upcoming BGMEA elections, scheduled to be held on May 28.

Quazi Moniruzzaman, a former BGMEA president, said the apparel sector has been passing through tough times and the challenges would continue to prevail in the next few months as expenses would increase for Eid-ul-Fitr and Eid-ul-Azha.

Kutubuddin Ahmed, another former BGMEA president, urged those present to help the body's members exercise their voting rights and elect the best leaders.

SM Fazlul Hoque, a former BGMEA president, said the association has played a big role in helping the garment sector of Bangladesh to thrive, but sometimes the sector falls in trouble because of non-cooperation from some quarters.

Former BGMEA presidents Faruque Hassan, Khandoker Rafiqul Islam and Redwan Ahmed also spoke.​

 

[Saif]

Tariff commission flags textile smuggling ahead of Eid

With festivities in full swing ahead of Eid-ul-Fitr, the Bangladesh Trade and Tariff Commission has emphasised the importance of safeguarding the local textile industry against the growing influx of imported garments.

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Tariff commission flags textile smuggling ahead of Eid
Proposes critical steps to safeguard industry

A woman browses through the apparel selection at an Aarong outlet in Dhaka. With festivities in full swing ahead of Eid-ul-Fitr, the Bangladesh Trade and Tariff Commission focused on the need for urgent intervention to protect the domestic market for textiles, especially in the face of increasing competition from imports. The photo was taken recently. Photo: Prabir Das

With festivities in full swing ahead of Eid-ul-Fitr, the Bangladesh Trade and Tariff Commission has emphasised the importance of safeguarding the local textile industry against the growing influx of imported garments.

As demand for apparel spikes during the country's largest shopping festival, the commission proposed several critical steps yesterday to counter the rising trend of imports, smuggling, and duty evasion that is threatening locally produced textiles.

According to a survey by the Bangladesh Shop Owners Association (BSOA), business worth around Tk 170,000 crore is conducted ahead of Eid-ul-Fitr, with over Tk 37,000 crore spent on clothes.

However, smuggled garments often infiltrate shopping hubs, undercutting local producers, during this lucrative time.

In its recent report, the tariff commission focused on the need for urgent intervention to protect the domestic market for textiles, especially in the face of increasing competition from imports.

The Bangladesh Jamdani Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BJMEA) raised concerns about the rising availability of imported sarees, three-piece suits, "lehengas", and other garments, which could jeopardise the livelihoods of local weavers and manufacturers.

The commission's report revealed that a significant amount of apparel enters the market through both legal and illegal channels.

The analysis shows that saree imports from India alone reached 3,300 tonnes in fiscal year 2022-2023, valued at Tk 28.26 crore, before dropping to 2,526 tonnes in FY24, valued at Tk 25.89 crore.

Similarly, in FY24, imports of three-piece dresses and "lehengas" hit 37,676 tonnes, valued at Tk 1,531.56 crore. Until December 9 of this fiscal year, 16,506 tonnes, valued at Tk 658.43 crore, were brought in.

The commission further noted that the average net price per piece of imported garments appears lower than current market prices.

Some foreign sarees and "lehengas", which should be worth over Tk 1 lakh in the local market, are being sold well below those prices, suggesting oversupply and possible links to duty evasion or smuggling.

To ensure that the actual value of these imports is properly reflected, the commission has recommended that the National Board of Revenue issue special instructions to import clearance stations for garments, including two-piece outfits, three-piece dresses, "lehengas", and sarees.

The commission also called for all garment products to come under inspection during customs clearance.

These inspections should involve relevant customs officers and third-party agencies to prevent false declarations and guarantee compliance with regulations.

Furthermore, the commission urged the Ministry of Home Affairs, in collaboration with the Directorate of Customs Intelligence and Investigation, to take strict legal action against smuggling and duty evasion.

Special operations led by Border Guard Bangladesh, police and anti-smuggling district task forces are essential to protecting the domestic market from illegal foreign textiles.

Bangladesh imports apparel from countries like India, Pakistan, China, Myanmar, Hong Kong, Vietnam, Thailand, and Japan.​

 

[Saif]

Bangladesh beats competitors in RMG export growth to US

Bangladesh has outperformed competitor countries to attain the highest year-on-year growth in apparel shipments to the US market in January, as American retailers and brands are placing large volumes of work orders here to capitalise on the favourable tariff regime.

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Bangladesh beats competitors in RMG export growth to US

Bangladesh has outperformed competitor countries to attain the highest year-on-year growth in apparel shipments to the US market in January, as American retailers and brands are placing large volumes of work orders here to capitalise on the favourable tariff regime.

In January, garment exports to the US from Bangladesh increased by 45.93 percent year-on-year to $799.65 million, according to data from the Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA) of the US.

Exporters said this happened as the Trump administration raised tariffs on imports from China and Mexico, creating an advantage for Bangladesh in the US market.

In the run-up to the presidential election, Trump had declared that he would impose high tariffs on goods imported from China, Mexico, and other countries if elected.

Right after taking office, he increased the tariff on Chinese goods from 25 percent, which he had set during his last tenure as US president, to 35 percent.

On the other hand, Bangladeshi exporters have long faced a 15.62 percent duty on exports to the US. Under the current circumstances, Bangladesh has the opportunity to increase exports to the US.

In January, the US imported garment items worth $7.20 billion from all over the world, marking a year-on-year growth of 19.46 percent.

Meanwhile, China's apparel exports to the US rose by 13.72 percent to $1.60 billion.

Correspondingly, Vietnam secured 19.90 percent growth to reach $1.44 billion, India 33.64 percent to $473.27 million, Indonesia 41.70 percent to $419.95 million, Cambodia 29.95 percent to $324.99 million, and Mexico 1.20 percent to $193.70 million.

For Pakistan, it was 17.50 percent to $179.73 million, whereas for Korea, it was 5.54 percent to $16.43 million. Honduras witnessed a decline of 26.10 percent to $112.02 million, according to the OTEXA.

In the July–February period of the current fiscal year 2024–25, Bangladesh's garment exports worldwide totalled $26.80 billion.

This represents substantial growth of 10.64 percent from the $24.22 billion attained during the same period last fiscal year.

This increase signifies the resilience and dedicated efforts of the industry towards promoting sustainability and continuous economic advancement, said Faruque Hassan, former president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

It is significant, considering that the global market experienced a 5 percent year-over-year decline in 2024, he said.

Breaking it down further, Bangladesh's woven exports rose by 10.22 percent, increasing from $11.30 billion in FY 2023–24 to $12.46 billion in FY 2024–25.

The knitwear sector experienced even more significant growth of 11.01 percent, with exports climbing from $12.92 billion to $14.34 billion.

"While we celebrate these achievements, our month-by-month analysis indicates some challenges ahead," Hassan said over WhatsApp.

"Following a period of strong growth in the second quarter of FY 2024–25, we observed a deceleration starting in January 2025, which continued into February," he said.

In February this year, garment exports reached $3.24 billion, marking modest growth of 1.66 percent, with woven exports slightly declining by 0.44 percent while knitwear exports grew by 3.77 percent.

"As we look ahead, we recognise the dual nature of our path—both opportunities and challenges. There are significant internal factors that the government is earnestly working to address, and the industry itself is making proactive adjustments," he said.

Declining price levels remain a major concern that necessitates strategic actions to remodel the business, said Hassan.

Conversely, the potential for growth in various items, fibres, and markets, alongside trade diversification due to geopolitical tensions and trade wars, presents immense opportunities for Bangladesh, he added.​

 

[Saif]

The rise and fall of Dhaka muslin

Dhaka muslin: a fabled fabric from Bengal, prized worldwide, vanished quickly.

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The rise and fall of Dhaka muslin

A demonstration proving true a claim passed through the generations that Muslin fabric is so fine that a six-yard sari could be passed through a ring. Photo: Star file/ Rashed Shumon

I grew up reading many Greek myths—whether it was about Sisyphus's exercise in futility, Prometheus's gift of fire to humanity, or Orpheus's fatal mistake of looking back at his beloved in the underworld. Those myths may be far-fetched, but what felt real enough to touch were the myths around the fabled fabric—Dhaka muslin. Something about living in the world's largest delta through which the Meghna River flows made it so. The river being shrouded by fog, young women with nimble hands weaving away and singing sweet melodies, and the supple softness of the fabric that was believed to be made under water—all these made for perfect conditions for any passerby to spin the myth of mermaids melodising in the mist.

The entire process of its production, from extracting the cotton fibre from a yellow flowering plant, Phuti karpas, that grew along the Meghna River to the fabric adorning royalty, involved 16 very elaborate steps that were carried out in different areas around Dhaka. The fibre was carefully cleaned using boal fish teeth attached to its jawbone. Bowls of water were scattered around during the process of spinning as it aided in the moistening of the air-humidity being a key ingredient to stretch it. The spinning would often take place in boats when humidity was at its peak, in early mornings and late afternoons. Young women carried out this task with their supple fingers and enviable eyesight. The fabric travelled the rich lands of Bengal and the hands of both the old and young before travelling the world. The Mughals refused to have their portraits drawn adorned in anything else but muslin. To the East, it went to Java and China, where in the early 14th century, the traveller Ibn Battuta wrote that it was highly prized. This fabric was what members of high society in Europe wore and scandalised entire courts by being accused of indecency in public. As such a fine fabric was unheard of and seldom seen in the West—it captivated the likes of Queen Marie Antoinette, Empress Joséphine Bonaparte, and the esteemed author Jane Austen. However, as quickly as the fabric took the aristocrats of the East and West by storm, it also disappeared in a blink of an eye.

My experience of seeing pieces of Dhaka muslin in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London was a conflicted one. A part of me was glad to see the fabled fabric so beautifully preserved. So many wonderful epithets given to muslin by historians played in my head, like "vapours of dawn," and "woven wind." But another part of me was pained, thinking about the "kothis," the Mughals put muslin artisans into that subjected them to extremely harsh conditions, and the unrelenting greed of British colonialism that made this pride of Bengal go extinct. I have heard from disgruntled uncles sipping their late afternoon tea saying that the British cut off the thumbs of the muslin workers to ascertain the production of muslin dried up sooner than their blood spilled to the ground. Aunties discussed, while chopping vegetables, that acres of this fabric could be tucked into their less-than-modestly sized engagement rings.

The capitalist East India Company had no regard for the convoluted nature of how the muslin was made, it only cared that the demand was met. Hence, pressure was put on the artisans of muslin till they cracked. Moreover, the British took advantage of the demand for muslin and hard launched the discount "muslin" produced in the cotton mills of dreary England.

Unfortunately, the cheaper prices they could offer far outweighed the need for the finesse of the real deal. This resulted in the cotton industry of Bengal coming to a screeching halt, and muslin artisans sought employment elsewhere. Fuel was added to the ravaging fire with the famines orchestrated by the terrible policies of the British colonisers in Bengal, which killed off many of these talented artisans. With their death, the intricate technique of weaving muslin was buried. Perhaps to mourn such a misfortune, Phuti karpas went extinct along the banks of Meghna.

The fabled fabric reached up to 1200 thread counts and today's rendition of "muslin" comes nowhere close—like an underachieving son making a mockery of the family name. However, there have been noteworthy efforts to revive the lost art of muslin weaving, which serves as a glimmer of hope for us to perhaps one day be adorned by this "woven wind," which has been a favourite topic of every textile historian. Moreover, Dhaka and its surrounding areas later developed the traditional art of "jamdani" weaving fortunately, which has been protected as a form of intangible cultural heritage in 2013 by UNESCO.

As is quite evident, the success of the Bangladeshi garment industry, which is worth $47 billion today is not without precedence. But perhaps the rise and fall of muslin serves as a cautionary tale of artisans being squeezed to their limits and also that the extreme industrialisation of any product will result in those crafts being endangered and ultimately going extinct.

Raina Sabanta is a barrister.​