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[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh

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[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh
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RMG exports to EU jump 61pc
Monira Munni
Published :
Mar 20, 2025 00:30
Updated :
Mar 20, 2025 00:30

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Bangladesh's readymade garment exports to the European Union (EU) recorded a robust 61-percent growth in January this year, staying ahead of the major competitors, including China, Vietnam, Turkey, and India.


Apparel exports to the EU market in January 2025 fetched 1.91 billion euros, compared to 1.18 billion euros earned in the same month last year, according to Eurostat data published on March 18. Eurostat is the statistical office of the EU.

Knitwear subsector exports to the 27-nation economic bloc in the first month of 2025 increased by 64.2 per cent to 1.14 billion euros, while woven garment exports surged by 56.3 per cent to 765.96 million euros.

Bangladesh's garment shipments to the EU in terms of volume witnessed over 58 per cent growth in January 2025, marking a turnover of 126.86 million kilograms from 80.25 million kilograms in the corresponding month of 2024, according to the data.

Exporters have attributed the rise to a number of factors, including rising global demand, shift of work orders from China, and duty-free market access, while local reasons are competitive pricing; enhanced capacity, efficiency, productivity, and workplace-safety compliance; and the production of quality goods.

The developments during last several years ensured buyers' confidence and trust and good business environment in the country, providing a boost to the main export trade.

The EU's total apparel imports in January 2025 stood at 8.28 billion euros, about 32 per cent higher than 6.28 billion euros logged in the corresponding month last year, the data revealed.

Among Bangladesh's main competitors, China recorded a 40.81 per cent growth in January 2025, while India, Pakistan, and Cambodia witnessed double-digit growth of 44.44 per cent, 32 per cent, and 72.43 per cent, respectively.


When asked, Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) former president Fazlul Hoque termed the growth encouraging as the industry is bouncing back.

Like the US, the EU market is also getting better after a long period of weaker position, while the base of comparison was also weak as January 2024 recorded negative growth, he noted.

With the improved economy, consumers are also purchasing apparels, resulting in rising demand, he explained.

Talking to The Financial Express, MA Rahim Feroz, vice-chairman of DBL Group, said the group's exports reached the highest $500 million for the first time as it dedicatedly enhanced both productivity and efficiency by installing modern technology while that of operators also increased.

Capacity, efficiency, and productivity have helped attain the growth overall, he noted.

Besides, work orders from China are also shifting to other garment-producing countries like Bangladesh, said Feroz, also a former leader of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

He noted that hundreds of small garment factories closed down during the last two years, while big ones are buying them and operating efficiently and professionally by complying with due diligence, which has also boosted the overall export growth.

"If the government can ensure an uninterrupted power supply, garment exports will reach $100 billion within the next three years," he added.

Both exporters opined that work orders are coming and the growth trend might sustain in 2025 as buyers got back their confidence and are sourcing more from Bangladesh.

According to Eurostat data, China earned 2.37 billion euros in January 2025 by exporting clothes to the EU against 1.68 billion euros in the same month last year.

The EU's imports from Turkey recorded a slow growth of 5.41 per cent to 874.09 million euros in January 2025. Vietnam recorded a 34.27 per cent growth, earning 398.56 million euros that month.

Pakistan and Cambodia fetched 347.71 million euros and 420.86 million euros, respectively, in January this year from the EU market. The EU imported apparels worth 397.70 million euros from India in January 2025, which was 44.44 per cent higher than the earnings in the same month last year.

In the meantime, RMG exports to the United States, the single-largest destination for Bangladesh, grew by 45.9 per cent to $799.65 million in January 2025, according to data from OTEXA, an affiliate of the US Department of Commerce.

In January last year, clothing exports from Bangladesh to the US market stood at $547.95 million.

Exporters, however, noted that though the global demand has been improving in recent months, Bangladesh is failing to grab the opportunity fully as its competitive edges are eroding mainly because of high utility prices, poor gas supply, banking issues, and labour unrest.​
 
It’s time Bangladesh built its own global apparel brand

The way to do this is simple. You get one of the reputed global clothing wholesalers to carry these simple design clothes at severe discounts, and then once the label gets established, you slowly start upgrading quality and price. Kind of like H&M and The Gap.

Or - better yet, and more practical, buy a company/brand like the Gap and its sister brands (Old Navy, Banana Republic and Athleta). Which sells high-volume low-priced fashion collections we already supply from Bangladesh. BGMEA should have subsidized the effort and multiple garments suppliers could chip in to divvy up the investment and profits. This is what HAIER (China) as an electrical appliance manufacturer did (ditto with TCS). Walton could do this easily in the US market. So could BGMEA.
 
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Garment exports to EU surged 53% in January

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Garment shipments from Bangladesh to the European Union (EU) surged by 52.56 percent year-on-year to $1.97 billion in January this year, according to data from Eurostat.

The shipment was worth $1.29 billion in January last year, said the EU's statistical office.

In terms of volume, the apparel export to the EU rose by 58.08 percent. Meanwhile, average unit prices decreased by 3.49 percent.

In January 2025, apparel imports by the EU surged by 25.12 percent, reaching $8.57 billion, accompanied by a notable 41.10 percent spike in volume and an 11.33 percent decrease in average unit prices.

Various factors contributed to this positive export trend, said Mohiuddin Rubel, former director of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), in a WhatsApp message.

The factors include a rise in value added garment production, benefits from the new US tariffs, duty-free market access, adherence to safety standards, and collaborative efforts of manufacturers and workers, he said.

These developments enhanced buyer confidence, solidifying Bangladesh's position in the export landscape, he added.

He was optimistic about future projections, anticipating a rise in work orders throughout 2025, sustaining growth momentum. As buyers expand sourcing activities in Bangladesh, the growth trajectory is set to continue, he said.

Comparatively, China experienced a 33.55 percent growth in garment exports to the EU in January 2025 while India, Pakistan, and Cambodia also posted substantial growth rates of 36.99 percent, 25.12 percent, and 63.54 percent respectively.

China's apparel exports to the EU totalled $2.46 billion in January 2025, up from $1.84 billion in January 2024.

Conversely, Turkey saw a marginal 0.03 percent decrease in apparel imports to the EU, amounting to $904 million in January 2025, while Vietnam recorded a 27.35 percent growth, reaching $412 million.

India, Pakistan, and Cambodia secured $411 million, $360 million, and $435 million in January 2025, respectively, from the EU clothing market.

In conclusion, the data indicates a more pressing need for strategic changes for future growth, even though Bangladesh demonstrated resilience in preserving export quantity and value.

For Bangladesh to maintain its competitiveness and protect profit margins in the face of ongoing global price deflation, value addition and market diversification are still crucial, said Rubel.​
 

Time for RMG owners to grow up
Atiqul Kabir Tuhin
Published :
Mar 22, 2025 23:24
Updated :
Mar 22, 2025 23:24

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With Eid-ul-Fitr approaching, the familiar specter of unrest looms over the ready-made garment (RMG) sector. This has almost become an annual ritual before Eids, where workers take to the streets demanding their wages, arrears, and Eid bonuses, while factory owners use the situation as a bargaining tool to extract additional facilities from the government.

Last week, a garment owner-who is also a film star and producer-seemingly played the same old trick to get some additional benefits from the government. He said, "The workers will have to be paid their salaries for February, half of their March salaries, and Eid bonuses. Where will the owners get so much money?" The implication seemed to be that garment owners were somehow unfairly burdened, even though they continued to earn hefty profit, lead a lavish life, while the workers have to struggle for their rightful dues.

He further claimed that "240 groups of garment factories had shut down and that closures were happening daily, leaving thousands unemployed". However, the Press Secretary of the Interim Government later dismissed this as a blatant lie. Citing industrial police sources, he stated that 99 per cent of factories in the country's major industrial belts were operational. Furthermore, official data showed that garment exports had grown by 11 per cent over the past seven months, contradicting any claims of widespread industry closure.

According to the latest Eurostat data, Bangladesh's RMG exports to the European Union (EU) recorded an impressive 61 per cent growth in January this year, surpassing major competitors such as China, Vietnam, Turkey, and India. Apparel exports to the EU market reached 1.91 billion euros in January, up from 1.18 billion euros in the same month last year. Similarly, garment exports to the US surged by 45.93 per cent year-on-year in January, reaching $799.65 million, according to data from the US Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA). These figures suggest that, far from facing an existential crisis, the sector is thriving in global markets.

While the said garment owner's claim about factory closures may have been exaggerated, it has been reported that about 100 factories have been shuttered due to the lingering effects of the Russia-Ukraine conflict, political turmoil, and workers' unrest in the aftermath of the August 5 political changeover. However, if any factory owner genuinely finds it difficult to pay 15 days' salary for March before the month's end, there is no mandatory requirement to do so. Workers have never protested for advance salaries. As long as they receive their dues, they remain happy. However, factory owners have the option to secure loans of up to 80 per cent against the LC from banks, a widely accepted industry practice. Instead of utilising this facility, why do they expect the government to step in with bank loan arrangements and incentives? Other industrial sectors and businesses-many of which are not as successful as the RMG sector-do not make similar demands for special privileges.

Over the past four decades, Bangladesh's RMG sector has experienced remarkable growth, establishing itself as the world's second-largest apparel exporter. However, despite this impressive trajectory, it is perplexing that the sector remains heavily reliant on government support to maintain its competitiveness. This dependency is evident in the form of cash export incentives, tax benefits and so on. While government assistance can be crucial for fledgling industries, the continued reliance of a 40-year-old industry raises serious questions about its sustainability and maturity.

The RMG sector now resembles a 40-year-old child! It is high time sector stood on their own feet, took responsibility for its workers and maintained its competitiveness without government incentive. So, rather than entertaining irrational demands, the government must hold the RMG owners accountable if their factories fail to clear workers' wages and Eid bonuses in time. The prosperity of this sector cannot come at the cost of the very workers who sustain it.​
 

Under-invoicing in garment imports
Shiabur Rahman
Published :
Mar 27, 2025 23:41
Updated :
Mar 27, 2025 23:41

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Bangladesh has achieved a remarkable success in readymade garment export. Shelves of leading global brands cannot be imagined without made-in-Bangladesh garments. Still Indian and Pakistani dresses seem to have remained an integral part of Eid celebrations of Bangladeshi people, particularly those belonging to the middle class to affluent section. Their Eid joy perhaps remains incomplete without Indian lehengas and Pakistani three-pieces and punjabis no matter how expensive they are. A modest Pakistani three-piece or punjabi costs more than Tk 5,000 on an average while a gorgeous lehenga is priced at as high as a six-digit figure.

Consignments of garments from India and Pakistan as well as from China keep reaching Bangladesh round the year, but their number skyrockets before every Eid to cater to rising Eid demand. Shipments of fashion products also come from a few other Asian and European countries.

As a RMG export country, Bangladesh has high import duties imposed on the import of the same products and is supposed to earn huge revenues from their imports. But that is not the case just because of widespread tax evasion through under-invoicing. A vernacular contemporary has recently run a report on the extent of tax evasion by importers of Indian and Pakistani dresses. According to the report, businessmen declared the import price of each modest Indian three-piece as low as Tk 40, salwar-kameez Tk 18, girls' tops Tk 11 and gorgeous lehenga Tk 105. The declared price of a piece of Pakistani punjabi for adults is Tk 65. Customs authorities, however, did not release the goods in many cases just taxing them based on the declared prices, they themselves appraised the value of the products and levied taxes accordingly. According to people who observe duty issues, the appraised value is still far below the actual import prices of the dresses.

Data from the revenue authorities and trade bodies corroborate the suspicion that a significant portion of garment imports from India and Pakistan is undervalued. According to industry estimates, the actual value of imports from these two neighbouring countries could be several times higher than the declared values.

Under-invoicing in imports is persistent for long, but its extent in the import of garments has reached an alarming level in recent years. This illegal trade manoeuvre is causing substantial revenue losses to the government, and promoting hundi. Importers collude with suppliers to create fake invoices, often using hundi or offshore accounts to settle the remaining balance, thus keeping the undeclared portion of the transaction hidden from the authorities.

The Bangladesh revenue authorities have implemented various measures to curb under-invoicing, but enforcement still remains a challenge. Customs officials rely heavily on invoice declarations and are often unable to verify the authenticity of transaction values. The absence of a proper valuation database or reference pricing mechanism makes it difficult to cross-check the declared values. Corruption among the revenue authorities is also considered a big barrier to checking under-invoicing. Media reports suggest that a section of customs officials ignore under-invoicing in exchange for bribes, allowing fraudulent transactions to continue. Unless stricter oversight and transparency measures are introduced, this problem will not go away.

Checking under-invoicing is not an easy task and it requires stronger regulatory frameworks, technological interventions, and international cooperation. The revenue authorities should establish a minimum reference price for imported garments based on international market prices, leverage technology to cross-check invoices with export data from the source countries, enhance post-import audits to detect under-invoicing cases and introduce mechanism to impose heavier penalties, including revoking licences of fraudulent importers to deal with the issue. Enhanced digital documentation and real-time data sharing with the countries of origin could help reduce the malpractice.​
 

Commerce ministry requests NBR to restrict yarn imports through land ports

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The commerce ministry has suggested the revenue authority take steps to restrict yarn imports through land ports to protect the local textile and spinning sector.

In a letter to the National Board of Revenue (NBR) on March 27, the commerce ministry stated that yarn imports via land ports have caused significant losses to the domestic textile industry.

It said that lower values of yarn imported through land ports are declared compared to yarn imported through Chittagong port.

Local manufacturers are unable to compete with the yarn imported through land ports.

As such, it recommended the NBR take measures to bar imports through the land ports.

Last week, textile millers urged the government to take action, stating that the domestic yarn industry is struggling to survive.

Yarn imports from India are permitted through seaports and four land ports—Benapole, Sonamasjid, Bhomra, and Banglabandha.

The government had allowed yarn imports through these ports in January 2023 to meet a sudden surge in demand following the Covid-19 pandemic.

Currently, yarn worth around Tk 100 billion is stockpiled in local mills, as India continues to dump yarn at lower prices, millers said.​
 

Do I really need that new piece of clothing?

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The global fashion industry produces 92 million tons of textile waste, and one extra clothing purchase contributes to that. FILE PHOTO: PALASH KHAN

In the grand scheme of things, with rising expenses for everything else, clothing often does not seem like a thing to consider or bother about. Although the days of Tk80 t-shirts seem like a thing of the past, the cost of clothes isn't a burning issue for us. There are always options for different buyers, from broke students to the handful luxury item purchasers.

Let's go through the life of a t-shirt. For a typical Bangalee, the t-shirt will stay with its owner for a few years, with maybe around a hundred or so washes, and then it will eventually end up as a rag to clean the house. And one day, it will be too torn up and washed up to even use as a cleaning rag. And when it is thrown away, someone else will use it in some other way.

While the life-cycle for a single t-shirt seems nice, imagine the mounds of thrown-away t-shirts when every single person owns not one but an increasing number of t-shirts, oblivious to the true cost of clothing. The true cost might not come from our pockets directly, but the price is paid by our rivers and our environment that have been polluted through the entire clothing-making cycle. The cost of clothing is always hidden in its lifecycle, something we never really think about much.

The average person today buys 60 percent more clothing items than they did 15 years ago, while keeping each garment for half as long, according to the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP). Textile matters because it is an integral part of human life. Responsible use of textiles is something that each person in this world should be accountable for, be it from a consumer's perspective or from a producer's perspective.

March 30, 2025, will be observed as the International Day of Zero Waste with the theme "Towards zero waste in fashion and textiles." The global fashion industry significantly contributes to resource consumption and carbon emissions, requiring 79 billion cubic meters of water annually (about 20 percent of the world's total water consumption), generating 1.7 billion tons of carbon dioxide (almost 10 percent of the world's total carbon dioxide emissions), and producing 92 million tons of textile waste (equivalent to a truckload of clothing being incinerated or sent to landfills every second).

When big celebrations like Eid come up, we purchase a lot for our loved ones, limiting our behaviour only through a monetary lens. When was the last time you asked yourself if your favourite designer/ brand had thought about the sustainability and durability of the clothing, reducing waste in the production process, using sustainable and non-toxic materials and providing fair wages to their suppliers? I, myself, seldom think about these perspectives while purchasing that really cool kameez set, or when I am swayed by that gorgeous piece of saree, or when that influencer is swaying my decision to purchase something needlessly. It's just a piece of clothing, and for some reason, I really "need" it. I do not think about its life with me.

The model of fast fashion is the leading cause of clothing waste. Remember how I said that I really "need" that piece of clothing? Our surroundings have been propagating this cycle of overconsumption, making us purchase the next thing and the next and then the next. By simply saying no to fast fashion, we can make the biggest impact! Question whether you truly need this purchase and if you will wear this at least 30 times. This "30 wears" test helps break the habit of impulse purchasing.

When you cannot wear the item 30 times (it happens; who is going to wear that poofy lehenga 30 times?), invest in higher quality, durable items that last longer. When possible, explore secondhand options first, without stigma! The habit of swapping clothes in your networks is also an excellent one. The environmental impact of a second-hand purchase is dramatically lower than buying new, as it requires no additional manufacturing resources.

Material selection is also very important when we do customise our own clothing. When we choose dark coloured clothing, especially black, it can hide stains and requires less washing, whereas lighter colours show stains more, eventually leading to higher washing and faster replacement. Light coloured clothes typically require more intensive bleaching and chemical processing during their manufacturing to achieve this bright colour, which means more chemicals are leached into the environment while they are produced.

Choose natural fibres like linen, which requires less water than cotton and can thrive without intensive pesticides or fertilisers, alongside other not-so-common options like hemp, which requires fewer chemicals to produce. Avoid synthetic materials like polyester in your fabric which shed microplastics on washing.

And for the eventuality of disposal, never discount how helpful repurposing your textiles is. Turn it into a kantha or quilt; remake that old saree into a dress!

Consumers are not the only group with a responsibility to do better, it is also on the producers to rethink the way they produce clothing. For designers and clothing producers, sustainable thinking can enhance their creativity. Reducing waste starts at the beginning, with every scrap of clothing saved, when materials are selected sustainably and with innovation focus. Even fabric scraps can be reincorporated into new products through techniques like fibre recycling, among others.

Achieving zero waste in fashion requires collaboration between producers and consumers. This symbiotic process can only start when we start thinking about the "real" cost of our textiles.

Let's ask ourselves the next time we make bulk purchases, "Do we really need that extra piece of clothing?"

Raida A. K. Reza is doctoral researcher at United Nations University's Institute for Integrated Management of Material Fluxes and of Resources (UNU-FLORES), Leibniz Institute of Ecological Urban and Regional Development (IOER), and Technische Universität Dresden and the founder of Zero Waste Bangladesh (ZWBD).​
 

Purchase orders may drop by 20–30pc amid US reciprocal tariffs
Staff Correspondent
Dhaka
Updated: 05 Apr 2025, 11: 27

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Workers at a garment factory File photo

Shovon Islam, managing director of leading garment exporter Sparrow Group of Industries, held meetings with three buyer companies in the United States last month. The US buyers separately expressed their positive mindset in shifting women’s clothing orders from China to Bangladesh.

In an over-the-phone conversation with Prothom Alo, Shovon Islam said, “After Donald Trump imposed the 37 per cent reciprocal tariff on Bangladesh, I contacted the buyers again regarding the purchase orders. They are now delaying the process, indicating that the orders are now uncertain.”

He continued, “A number of buyers informed us that the demand for readymade garments in the US would subside due to the tariff. If it happens, purchase orders may go down by 20-30 per cent next spring and winter.”

Garment exporters said the immediate impact of the US reciprocal tariff may be limited, but long-term impact on purchase orders could be severe if the tariff remains in place. As the US buyers have already begun recalculating costs, the Bangladesh government should initiate talks with the US without any delay.

If the 37 per cent reciprocal tariff remains for four to five years, the consequences for Bangladesh's exports could be devastating. Abdullah Hill Rakib, former vice-president of the BGMEA.

Regarding the tariff, commerce adviser Sheikh Bashir Uddin told Prothom Alo that it would take a few more days to fully assess the situation and the government’s response. He added that an emergency meeting will be held at his ministry on Sunday to determine the course of action.

Donald Trump, who began his second term as US president earlier this year, had pledged increased tariffs during his election campaign. On Wednesday, he officially announced reciprocal tariffs for around a dozen of countries. For Bangladesh, the US reciprocal tariff is 37 per cent, while it is 26 per cent for India, and 46 per cent for Vietnam.

According to Reuters and Vietnam+, India began reviewing import duties on over 30 US products, including luxury cars, solar cells, and chemicals, earlier this year, in an effort to deal with the US tariff. The nieghbouring nation has reportedly finalised plans to reduce import tariffs on 55 percent of American goods. Meanwhile, Vietnam has already slashed tariffs on 16 types of US products.

Our main competitor in home textiles is Pakistan, which faces a 29 per cent reciprocal tariff – lower than Bangladesh's 37 per cent. Simply, this gives Pakistan a competitive edge. M Shahadat Hossain, former chairman of the BTTLMEA.

In Bangladesh, the readymade garment sector accounts for 80 per cent of total exports, while the US is the single largest export destination, accounting for 18 per cent of garment shipments in the last fiscal year.

Against the backdrop, the reciprocal tariff sparked widespread concern among exporters, including those exporting footwear, leather goods, home textiles, and frozen foods.

Abdullah Hill Rakib, former vice-president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), said if the 37 per cent reciprocal tariff remains for four to five years, the consequences for Bangladesh's exports could be devastating. He laid emphasis on initiating negotiations with the US.

Home textiles is another key export product to the US. The country earned nearly USD 50 million from the US market in the last fiscal year. Now, the exporters are fearing a decline in their business due to the new tariff.

“Our main competitor in home textiles is Pakistan, which faces a 29 per cent reciprocal tariff – lower than Bangladesh's 37 per cent,” said M Shahadat Hossain, former chairman of the Bangladesh Textile and Linen Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BTTLMEA). “Simply, this gives Pakistan a competitive edge,” he added.

Shahadat also pointed out other challenges for the sector, including rising gas and electricity prices, reduced cash incentives, and now, the added burden of US tariff.​
 

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