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[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh
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Beximco Textiles may resume operations as Japanese company shows interest

bdnews24.com
Published :
Aug 08, 2025 00:18
Updated :
Aug 08, 2025 00:18

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Beximco Group’s Textiles and Apparel Division, BexTex, which has been closed amid financial pressure, may resume operations under a lease agreement with Japanese apparel firm Revival Project Limited.

The company has agreed to take over the factory as part of a government-backed initiative.

Beximco has issued a comfort letter supporting the lease arrangement.

Revival Project, which has prior experience in the apparel sector, plans to invest $20 million or around Tk 2.5 billion into the operation.

A tripartite agreement involving Revival Project, BexTex and lender Janata Bank is expected to be signed this August.

Though initially hesitant, Beximco is now on board to restart the unit through the lease deal.

Bangladesh Bank, Janata Bank and the government are working to provide policy support.

The labour and employment ministry is coordinating on behalf of the government.

A senior Bangladesh Bank official, speaking on condition of anonymity, told bdnews24.com: “The Japanese company has assured it will bring in capital at the time of purchase order.

“Details will be finalised when the agreement is signed.”

To ensure full financial transparency and loan repayment from export earnings, stakeholders say the Japanese firm may appoint Deloitte as auditor.​
 

Apparel exports to US surge to $4.25b in first six months of the year

Published :
Aug 08, 2025 15:20
Updated :
Aug 08, 2025 15:20

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From January-June this year, the US witnessed a modest increase in apparel imports, reaching $38.16 billion globally, reflecting a 6.74 per cent rise from the previous year.

Noteworthy changes in the number of units include a 4.26 per cent growth in SME and a 2.37 per cent increase in unit price.

Particularly, imports from Bangladesh surged to $4.25 billion, displaying a substantial growth rate of 25.12 per cent compared to the same period in 2024, according to a UNB report.

In the year 2025 May, Bangladesh's export to the US was US $547.42 million and on June 25 it is US $723.08 million, meaning growth is 32.09 per cent from May to June 2025, said Mohiuddin Rubel, former director, Brand BGMEA.​
 

Tariff math favours Bangladesh in shifting US trade landscape
The shift of the USA to reciprocal tariffs has shaken global trade. But for Bangladesh, it’s opened a rare window of opportunity


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When US President Donald J. Trump burst back onto the global trade stage, he brought with him a term that's now rattling old-school trade economists: reciprocal tariff. Think of it as "you charge us this much, we'll charge you the same"—a tit-for-tat pricing game that bypasses the World Trade Organization (WTO), the traditional referee of global trade rules.

While this move has left WTO purists in a daze, for some countries—Bangladesh included—there is a silver lining.

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After lengthy negotiations with the United States Trade Representative (USTR), the American government's chief trade negotiation body, Bangladesh has secured a 20 percent reciprocal tariff rate on its exports to the US. Add that to the existing 16.5 percent average US import duty, and you get a new effective tariff rate (ETR) of 36.5 percent, according to the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

Sounds high? Perhaps. But it's all about comparison. In a world where competitors are being slapped with tariffs as high as 50-60 percent, 36.5 percent starts to look like a discount.

A COMPETITIVE EDGE

In 2024, Bangladesh held 9.3 percent of the $85 billion US apparel market, a figure that could now rise significantly. Why? Because the reciprocal tariff system affects different countries in dramatically different ways, and for Bangladesh, it happens to be largely favourable.

The government and local private-sector entrepreneurs are optimistic. The new tariff rate is much lower than what other competing countries such as Vietnam, India, and China are facing. They have already noted that the new ETR will help boost Bangladesh's exports to the US, as American clothing retailers and brands will prefer Bangladesh as a sourcing destination due to its competitive tariff edge.

AK Azad, managing director of Ha-Meem Group, a major garment exporter to the USA, said the reduction of the tariff is a relief for him.

However, his American business partners are demanding a share of the additional tariff burden, which is squeezing his profit further. "It will take more time to absorb the additional tariff by the importing companies in the USA," he said.

Mahmud Hasan Khan, president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association, is also hopeful that exports from the country will rise because of the tariff benefit.

"If the local suppliers are not aware, the international retailers and brands may put pressure on them to share a certain portion of the additional tariff," he said.

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Photo: Rajib Raihan

HOW WE FARE AGAINST COMPETITORS

Vietnam, Bangladesh's close competitor in the global apparel market, currently enjoys an 18.9 percent share of the US market and faces a similar 20 percent reciprocal tariff. But the devil is in the details.

Vietnam's export portfolio to the US consists largely of high-end, synthetic garments (activewear, skiwear, and outerwear), which already attract an average 32 percent US duty. Add the reciprocal tariff, and the effective tariff rate could easily exceed 50 percent.

Moreover, President Trump imposed an additional 40 percent tariff on garments found to be transshipped through Vietnam to avoid Chinese duties. Since Vietnam's garment sector relies heavily on Chinese raw materials, investment, and supply chains, this adds another layer of complexity and cost, potentially eroding its competitiveness.

India, another major competitor with a 5.9 percent market share in the US, has been hit the hardest. Trump slapped a staggering 50 percent rate on the country due to its continued import of Russian oil. That is the highest tariff rate among all countries in this new regime. Considering India's average tariff on garment items to the US, its ETR now stands at 66.5 percent.

Then there's China. The world's largest apparel supplier, with a 20.8 percent share of the US market, is facing a steep 55 percent ETR, which may climb higher as US-China tariff negotiations remain unresolved.

The East Asian economic superpower has been steadily losing ground in the American market since 2018, when Trump launched a trade war during his first term in office. Since then, countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam, Cambodia, Indonesia, Pakistan, and India have begun carving out bigger shares.

Indonesia faces a 19 percent reciprocal tariff, resulting in a 35.5 percent ETR, giving the country a comparatively advantageous position over Bangladesh.

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BANGLADESH'S SECRET WEAPON

What gives Bangladesh the edge? Cotton.

Its five top garment exports—trousers, knitted polo shirts, woven shirts and blouses, sweaters, and underwear—together account for 80 percent of its total apparel exports to the US. The concentration of cotton fibre in all these items is particularly high. And in the US tariff regime, cotton garments are treated far more leniently than synthetic ones.

This puts Bangladesh in direct contrast with Vietnam and China, who are more dependent on non-cotton and high-tariff products.

There's more. Under Trump's executive order, if an export item contains 20 percent US-origin content, such as American-grown cotton, the 20 percent reciprocal tariff is waived on that portion of the product's value.

Here's what that means: A $10 shirt made in Bangladesh using 20 percent US cotton will have the 20 percent reciprocal tariff applied to only $8 of its value, not the full $10. Some Bangladeshi exporters are already using up to 40 percent US cotton, meaning they'll enjoy even lower ETRs.

In the near future, there is a possibility of using more US content as Bangladesh has already agreed to import more American cotton and build warehouses for American cotton.

Exporters expect exports from Bangladesh to the US to grow because of this competitive edge.

THE ELEPHANT IN THE ROOM

Even with this competitive edge, a cloud looms over the celebrations: the US apparel market itself is shrinking.

"Just a few years ago, the US imported $105 billion worth of apparel annually. In 2024, that number dropped to $85 billion. And now, it could fall further, to $75 billion due to the higher tariff rate," said Mohammad Abdur Razzaque, chairman of the Research and Policy Integration for Development (RAPID).

No matter how favourable Bangladesh's tariff rate is, it won't matter if there are fewer orders coming in.

Before the introduction of the reciprocal tariff, the US's average import duty was 2.2 percent. The leap to 20 percent overnight is likely to fuel inflation, affecting consumers' purchasing power and leading to reduced spending.

The tariff burden, ultimately, falls on the consumer. Importers pay it initially, but it shows up in the price tag. As costs rise, American shoppers may scale back. And when retailers cut orders, even countries with favourable deals, like Bangladesh, feel the pain.

So where will all the surplus go?

The obvious answer is Europe. But that presents a new challenge: oversupply.

"Too many suppliers will compete in the same markets, and the European buyers may ask for price cuts because of unhealthy competition by the supplying countries," said Razzaque.

WHAT BANGLADESH TRADED FOR THE DEAL?

The reciprocal tariff agreement didn't come without strings attached.

Currently, the trade gap between the two countries is $6 billion, whereas Bangladesh exports goods worth $8.2 billion and imports goods worth $2 billion from the US.

To win a lower ETR, Bangladesh had to agree to a shopping list of US demands during negotiations, including buying more American goods—such as aircraft, wheat, soybeans, cotton, and other agricultural exports—to reduce the trade gap.

Bangladesh also agreed to open up its domestic market to US dairy, meat, and poultry industries, where local producers, especially small and medium enterprises, will now face stiff competition.

During the negotiation, the USTR also asked Bangladesh to reduce its dependence on China for procuring industrial raw materials—a tall order, considering China is the largest trading partner of Bangladesh. Local entrepreneurs import nearly $20 billion worth of goods a year from China.

Bangladesh is also set to undertake significant policy and regulatory reforms, including removing foreign ownership restrictions, streamlining investment approvals, and improving transparency for American investors.

The pending agreement is expected to broaden this engagement beyond apparel, into sectors such as agriculture, energy, aviation, and infrastructure.

Bangladesh will have to ratify several international agreements, including the Berne Convention (copyright), the Brussels Convention, the Budapest Treaty (patents), the Marrakesh Treaty (accessible books), the Singapore Treaty, the WIPO Copyright Treaty, the Patent Law Treaty, the Hague Agreement, and the Paris Convention, among others.

But the mood in Bangladesh is optimistic so far.

"This is a very good negotiation, and it is expected that the shipment of goods from Bangladesh will increase as the country has comparative tariff benefits over other countries," said Commerce Secretary Mahbubur Rahman, who was an integral part of the negotiation.

Apart from garments, the export of other goods—such as shoes and leather and leather goods—will also increase to the USA because of the lower tariff benefit, he also said.

The new reciprocal tariff regime of the world's largest economy presents a new phase of global economic diplomacy. In the end, it's a very delicate balancing act. Bangladesh has managed to turn a turbulent moment in US trade policy into a potential advantage. But it's a narrow path. The tariff rate may be lower, but the stakes are higher than ever.​
 

EXIT ROUTE ALLOWS US TARIFF DEDUCTION
Apparel exporters eye 'first sale' rule to boost competitiveness
Rule allows importer to pay 15-20pc lowered landed duty on product value


Jasim Uddin
Published :
Aug 12, 2025 00:41
Updated :
Aug 12, 2025 00:41

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Bangladeshi apparel exporters are exploring the 'First Sale' window of opportunity in the United States to help their buyers and retailers secure lower tariffs and thus enhance their export competitiveness on the high-duty US market.

In the American customs law, the first-sale rule allows an importer to pay 15-to 20-percent lowered landed duty through declared lowered value of goods based on the manufacturer's price through a multi-tiered transaction -- such as manufacturer to middleman to US importer -- rather than the final price paid by the US buyer.

Garment exporters in the know say this rule helps them avoid high tariffs. The rest of the price is paid as a research and development cost to the manufacturers, but this requires the involvement of another entity.

In a letter to the Ministry of Commerce, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has noted that the first-sale method is becoming increasingly popular among US buyers. The letter also mentions that a recent survey found major retail groups, such as PVH, VF, Kontoor Brands, AEO, Kohl's, and JCPenney, source a significant portion of their total purchases through this duty-deduction conduit.

All top American retailers are using this first-sale marketing programme, according to a source. "It includes all of the retailers like Calvin Klein, GAP, Levi's, C&A, American Eagle, Ann Taylor, and so on. Walmart, Costco, and a few others also use it."

Industry leaders mention that among the high-value-product exporters to the US market, Sparrow Group, Hameem Group, Viyellatex Group and Standard Group are doing business under these rules.

Industry-insiders say this approach can significantly reduce the declared customs value, which in turn cuts import duties and landed costs for US buyers.

For example, if a manufacturer sells goods to a trading company at $10 per unit, and those goods are sent

through another entity of the manufacturer, the US government allows them to reduce duties under the first-sale rule, which would be calculated on $8 instead of $10.

The remaining $2 would be calculated and paid as a research and development cost. They note that the resulting duty savings can make US retail prices more competitive, improve importers' profit margins, and free up working capital.

However, they also caution that the first-sale option comes with strict requirements under US Customs and Border Protection (CBP) regulations.

The first sale must be a genuine transaction for export to the United States, and the buyer and the seller must be independent or demonstrate that the price reflects market value. Goods must remain essentially the same after the first sale, aside from minor handling or repackaging, and exporters must maintain a clear documentation trail, including contracts, invoices, payment records, and shipping documents, to prove eligibility.

The strings binding the duty benefit also provide that first-sale value must also be declared at the time of import, with supporting papers available for CBP review.

Exporters believe with proper documentation and transaction structuring, Bangladeshi manufacturers can leverage the first-sale rule to strengthen partnerships with US buyers and potentially secure more orders on the price-sensitive American retail market.

Talking to the Financial Express, Shovon Islam, Managing Director of the Sparrow Group, said, "We have been doing business for the last 12 years under First Sale rules. This helps our buyers to be more competitive as it allows them to pay a lower rate of landed duty."

Islam adds that all of their large and reputable buyers are doing business under First Sale rules. "However, the product should be a high-value item," he explains. "For example, the FOB price should be above $8."

He notes that companies with multinational operations can do this easily, with the rest of the value being paid as an R&D cost.

"Lowering the product landed duty depends on the product category and its value. Generally, 10 per cent to 15 per cent is standard, and 20 per cent is the absolute maximum slab," he mentions.

"It's being audited by USA customs and top 3rd-party Accounting Firms regularly," says Shovon Islam, a former director of BGMEA.

BGMEA raises concern over cash incentives for 'first-sale' exports

The BGMEA letter to the trade body carries concern over cash incentives for exports under the First-Sale method. It states that the main condition binding this process is that the factory receiving the purchase order must produce the goods in another factory before exporting.

President of BKMEA Mohammad Hatem told the FE that one of their largest exporters faced difficulties getting cash incentives after exporting under First-Sale rules, even though those goods were produced in another unit of that company.

The goods were manufactured in another unit after getting buyer's approval, he said, adding: "We urged the government to allow such exporters for cash incentives."

Hatem adds: the government should clarify the rules for getting cash incentives on first-sale exports, especially when an exporter has to produce goods in another unit of the company. "Otherwise, trading companies will try to get cash incentives."

According to the latest data from the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), Bangladesh's total exports to the United States came to $8.69 billion during the past July-June period -- a notable increase from $7.60 billion a year earlier. Apparel exports to the US in the last fiscal year were worth $7.54 billion, representing a 14-percent year-on-year growth.

The US market accounted for over 18per cent of Bangladesh's total export earnings of $48.28 billion in FY25.​
 

Should incentives continue for RMG sector?

FE
Published :
Aug 12, 2025 23:00
Updated :
Aug 12, 2025 23:00

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It cannot be denied that the country's highest hard currency earner through export, the Readymade Garment (RMG) sector, has, of late, come up against certain unforeseen headwinds. The recent tariff war launched by the US President Donald Trump is definitely one. However, after negotiations with the number one global economic and military power, the government's trade delegation could bring down, to some extent, the high tariff the US first imposed on its imports from Bangladesh. Even the reduced rate of tariff will still be way higher than what was before the imposition of this new US tariff regime. Needless to say, it is the apparel products that are to endure the impact of such tariff hike from a major export destination of the country's exports. But it is not only the US tariffs, the uncertainties due to the wars in the Middle East and in Ukraine in Europe, which is the largest destination of Bangladesh's apparel as well as other products, have added to the challenges. Various tariff and non-tariff barriers recently raised by the neighbouring India on Bangladesh's external trade have also been playing their part in putting Bangladesh's chief exportable items through their paces. Also, the post-2024 cuts on general export incentives of 1.0 per cent, local yarn incentive of 3 per cent and the cash incentives of 0.5 per cent to 20 per cent of export value provided to different sectors including the RMG, together militated against the competitiveness of the RMG products in the global market.

Now, what challenges the post-graduation realities would pose to the exports are raising new concerns. That is because, the preferences Bangladesh had so far been enjoying as one of the least developed countries (LDCs) from the Western importers may not apply when the country joins the developing nations' club after graduation. The good news is, recognising the domestic and external challenges that the RMG sector is currently facing, the interim government has decided to maintain the existing export incentives and cash assistance programme for 43 sectors from July to December of the current fiscal year (FY 2025-26). However, a central bank's circular issued on July 10 to this effect specified that the rates for export incentives and cash support provided to products in question shipped between July 1 and December 31 would vary from 0.30 per cent to 10 per cent depending on product category. Of course, this is lower than the maximum rate of 20 per cent that the same category of products had been enjoying pre-2024. Even so, the question remains whether these export incentives including cash assistance would continue during the second half of FY 26, that is from January 1 to June 30 of the next calendar year.

It is against this backdrop that the leaders of the RMG sector recently met with the finance ministry officials to reiterate their demands for restoring pre-2024 cash support, local yarn incentive and general export incentive until 2029 in accordance with the World Trade Organization (WTO) provisions. Being the premier export sector of the country, the apparel industry leaders' demands have definitely their merits. And the successive governments have also been extending various incentives and assistances so they can remain competitive in the international market. While being sensitive to their cause, it is also important to understand the limitations of any government to continue propping up a particular business sector indefinitely.

It is time the apparel sector came of age and stayed competitive in the global market on its on strength. Meanwhile, the government should also extend necessary policy as well as financial support to other prospective export sectors, if only to diversify the country's export basket.​
 

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