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[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh

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[🇧🇩] Textile & RMG Industry of Bangladesh
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RMG makers seek PM’s intervention for yarn import

Saddam Hossain . Dhaka


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The readymade garment manufacturers of the country sought prime minister Tarique Rahman’s intervention to withdraw a restriction on imports of 10–30 count cotton yarn under bonded warehouse facilities.

They also said that the measure is disrupting raw material supplies and raising production costs for export-oriented garment factories.

The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association and the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association urged this in a joint letter to the prime minister sent on Thursday.

Earlier on September 7, the National Bureau of Revenue issued an order, following a meeting at the commerce ministry on August 20, withdrawing the bonded warehouse facility for the import of 10–30 count cotton yarn.

It allowed exporters to import the yarn against bank guarantees, subject to certification by the relevant trade bodies and release of the guarantees after export.

However, following major objections, the commerce ministry wrote to the NBR on September 13, requesting suspension of the decision for further review.

The NBR nevertheless issued another order on October 14 upholding the restriction order of NBR, according to the associations’ letter to the prime minister.

Signed by the BGMEA president Mahmud Hasan Khan and BKMEA president Mohammad Hatem, the letter said the latest order had created fresh uncertainty for exporters, with consignments of imported yarn held at Chattogram port disrupting production and supply chains.

They urged the government to withdraw the September 7 order without conditions and consult the relevant industry stakeholders before making such policy decisions.

They also proposed discussions among the BGMEA, BKMEA and the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association to develop a sustainable policy framework.

According to the letter, the consignments held at the port include twisted yarn used in sweater production, organic cotton yarn, Better Cotton Initiative cotton yarn, cotton melange and other specialised yarns that are not produced domestically to the required specifications and quality.

The associations said local spinning mills had already increased yarn prices by $0.30–$0.50 per pound since the September 7 order.

They also said that paying duties and taxes or providing bank guarantees for imported yarn would tie up exporters’ working capital and increase production costs, particularly for small and medium-sized exporters.

The BGMEA and BKMEA warned that the additional costs and supply disruptions could weaken Bangladesh’s competitiveness in international markets and put jobs at risk in the garment sector, which they said generated $39 billion in export earnings and supported the livelihoods of around four million people directly and indirectly.

The associations also claimed that frequent and unexpected policy changes had undermined buyers’ confidence, with some buyers shifting orders to India and Egypt.

Earlier, the NBR decision was welcomed by the BTMA, which argued that restricting duty-free imports of yarn available from local mills would protect domestic spinning industries, increase demand for locally produced yarn and help curb misuse of bonded facilities.

The BGMEA and BKMEA, however, opposed the measure, saying the decision had been incorporated into the meeting minutes without proper discussion with the apparel exporters’ associations and would increase costs for garment manufacturers.

They also said that they have been facing a series of policy changes since 2025, including the ban on yarn imports through land ports.

In this regard, they urged the prime minister’s instructions to protect the billion-dollar RMG industry.​
 
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RMG exports to Poland rise amid Russia war

Refayet Ullah Mirdha

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Bangladesh’s garment exports to Poland are rising as the Russia-Ukraine war disrupts direct trade with Russia and buyers shift sourcing from China, even as shipments to several major markets face pressure.

Garment exports to Poland grew 9.8 percent year-on-year to $1.86 billion in fiscal year 2025-26 (FY26), according to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data.

In contrast, Bangladesh’s total garment exports fell 1.64 percent during the fiscal year.

The slowdown has continued in major destinations. Bangladesh’s garment exports to the US fell 5.3 percent in the first half of 2026, while shipments to the European Union declined 11.67 percent in the first eight months, according to World Bank and Eurostat data.

Industry leaders attribute the growth in exports to Poland partly to Polish buyers re-exporting garments to neighbouring Russia, where sanctions-related payment difficulties have complicated direct trade.

They also cite demand for basic garment items and opportunities created by Chinese suppliers losing orders.

A GROWING MARKET

Bangladesh exported garment items worth $1.38 billion to Poland in FY21, with the amount rising to $2 billion in FY22, according to EPB data.

Exports fell to $1.40 billion in FY23 before recovering to $1.54 billion in FY24 and $1.69 billion in FY25.

In contrast, garment exports to Russia have declined since the war began in February 2022.

Before the war, Bangladesh exported more than $665 million worth of garment items to Russia in FY21, with industry players considering it as a rising market for Bangladeshi apparels.

Exports to the country have since continued to fall, standing at $257.26 million in FY26.

POLAND AS A ROUTE TO RUSSIA

Mahmud Hasan Khan, president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), said a significant volume of garment items was being re-exported from Poland to Russia.

Before the Russia-Ukraine war, Turkish traders also imported Bangladeshi garments for re-export to Russia, he said. Exports to Turkey declined after the country imposed a 17 percent duty on Bangladeshi garment items in 2011, according to him.

After the war began, Polish importers started re-exporting garments to Russia, contributing to the growth in Bangladesh’s exports to Poland, said Mahmud.

Salah Uddin Ahmed, managing director of IFS Texwear (Pvt) Ltd, which exports nearly $2 million worth of knitwear a month, also said some Polish buyers sourcing garments from Bangladesh also re-export products to Russia.

He, however, said he did not have specific evidence confirming that the garments being re-exported to Russia were sourced from Bangladesh.

Mohammad Hatem, president of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), said Poland could serve as a third country for exporting garments to Russia.

Western sanctions imposed after Russia’s invasion of Ukraine restricted several Russian banks’ access to the SWIFT international financial messaging system. The restrictions complicated some cross-border payment arrangements, making it harder for Bangladeshi exporters to receive payments from Russian buyers.

The war has also disrupted payments involving buyers linked to Russia. 28 Bangladeshi garment exporters have been struggling to recover $5.2 million from a Polish buyer for nearly two years, said Mijanur Rahman, managing director of Fabrica Knit Composite Ltd and a vice-president of the BGMEA.

Mijanur, who has been coordinating efforts to resolve the payment issue, said the buyer’s business had been disrupted by the war.

CHINA’S LOST ORDERS, BASICWEAR DEMAND

Exporters say the rise in shipments to Poland is not solely linked to the Russia-Ukraine war.

According to Mijanur, the loss of work orders by Chinese suppliers was one of the reasons behind the increase in Bangladesh’s garment exports to Poland.

Demand for basic garment items in the market was also strong, he added.

IFS Texwear’s Salah Uddin, meanwhile, noted that Poland was a growing market for Bangladeshi exporters because they enjoy zero-duty access under the European Union’s trade arrangements.

The duty advantage, combined with demand for basic garments and possible shifts in sourcing from China, has supported Bangladesh’s exports to Poland, exporters said.​
 
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Govt eyes commercial revival of ‘Dhakai Muslin’: state minister

Star Business Report

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The government is working to bring the fabled ‘Dhakai Muslin’ back to commercial production, aiming to revive the heritage fabric, create jobs and open up global markets, State Minister for Textiles and Jute Md Shariful Alam said today.

Speaking at a seminar in Dhaka, he said research had restored the technology for producing the fabric, which was lost about 170 years ago. The next challenge is to improve the cotton used to make muslin and develop the textile for wider commercial use.

The seminar, titled “Dhakai Futi Karpas Fiber Genomics and Development”, was held at the CIRDAP Auditorium to discuss ways to improve the varieties of Futi Karpas, the cotton used to produce muslin.

It was organised under the second phase of the project to restore the technology for making muslin yarn and cloth. The Bangladesh Handloom Board is implementing the project under the Ministry of Textiles and Jute.

“Dhakai Muslin is not just a name; it is a witness to heritage and royal grandeur,” Shariful said. “Very soon, the long-awaited Dhakai Muslin, a golden chapter of our history, an inseparable part of our national identity and a saga of glory, will return in full once again.”

Textiles and Jute Secretary Sharf Uddin Ahmed Choudhury said under the ongoing project, researchers were working to develop Futi Karpas varieties that are less dependent on daylight duration, produce higher cotton yields and have more and larger cotton bolls with fewer seeds.

They are also seeking to control plant height, he said.

Research is also under way to improve the count, which determines finesse, and quality of muslin yarn and refine the processes involved in preparing, weaving and finishing the fabric, said the secretary.

Handloom Board Chairman Md Jakir Hossan said intensive training and research had helped spinners progress from producing yarn of 80 metric count to 750 metric count.

Md Ayub Ali, project director of the muslin restoration project, said the first phase was completed at a cost of Tk 12.10 crore, restoring the technology for producing Dhakai Muslin after nearly 170 years.

The second phase is now under way with a budget of Tk 18.50 crore, he said.

Ahmed Mohamed Abdelmoghny Abdulbaky, chief researcher at the Cotton Breeding Department of Cotton Research Institute under Egypt’s Agricultural Research Center, also took part in the seminar as a discussant.​
 
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